Registered: Sep 2005
Location:
Posts: 90

alright i have a female bluetick young dog she will tree coon all night long but the question is if i have a distance to walk to the woods and i cut her by herself she piddles around until i get to the edge of the woods what do i have to do to get her to disappear when i cut her loose

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Brock Johnson
CH"PR"Brodbecks Mighty Blue Tuff2nd and 3rd ukc nite hunt
"PR" Highstake Sissy 2nd, 3rd place and 4th place

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Registered: Aug 2003
Location: Muskogee, Oklahoma
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I think you're saying that she will take off and hunt fine once she reaches the woods walking with you, right? So the problem is her not wanting to cover the distance between the truck and the woods. Start off close to the woods say 50 yards and see what she'll do. If she goes from that distance, then just hunt her that way a few drops and then slowly start making the distance farther each night. Or just turn her loose at the truck and get back in the truck and sit down untill she goes. She might not for a couple nights and it might take several times before she will, but if she has a strong desire to hunt she'll eventually go. If you really want to break this habit then you must absolutely quit walking her to the woods, she knows now that she doesn't have to go right away because eventually you will walk her there. You might go a few nights with out her actually getting to the woods or treeing a coon at all but in the long run you'll have something you like better. I always remind fellow hunters that we're not in this game to tree coons for ourselves but rather to make our hounds better and sometimes it's a backwards process. Keep us posted on how she does. Good luck!

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Registered: Sep 2005
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Posts: 90

alright that is exactly what she does ill try doing that and see if i get a better response how long should i wait in the truck before i load her up and take her home

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Brock Johnson
CH"PR"Brodbecks Mighty Blue Tuff2nd and 3rd ukc nite hunt
"PR" Highstake Sissy 2nd, 3rd place and 4th place

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Registered: Dec 2006
Location: Sandy Hook, KY
Posts: 1009

good hickery works good to slove your problem,if it is used rite

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Registered: Apr 2004
Location: Cutler, Il.
Posts: 1631

I wouldn't get into the truck. I would set on the tailgate, so if she tries to hang around & be your body guard, you can let her know that you don't want her near you. I have used a small limb or a rolled up news paper to slap the side of my leg, to make a little noise to let them know that I don't want you around me. Also, this is a good time to take your wife or girl friend along & make a night of it, or at least a couple of hours. Just don't let her hang around you, or stop & just stand there. Try not to park along a public road if you have a field road to drive down a little way. It may take 5-6 nights of this or even longer depending on when she finally figures out that if she's going to go the woods, that she will have to go on her own. It wouldn't hurt to turn her loose a couple of times with a dog that will get gone when it's turned loose.

I have never beat a dog to make it go hunting, in fact some people say my dogs hunt to wide for them. I just want them to go far enough to open on the first coon track they come across, no matter how cold or hot the track may be.

Doing this 1 night every week or two won't do any good. You should do it every night if you can.

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Good judgement, is something that you get from using bad judgement.--Will Rogers

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Registered: Nov 2004
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seems to me like you have an INTELLIGENT dog. She has been accidentally trained to this habit. I try to get all my dogs to stay with me until we reach the woods, just my preference.

I think Mr. Lattimer has the easiest and best solution to "fix" her. ANYTHING that can be accomplished without punishment is the best and most long lasting "fix". MY OPINION.

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Registered: Aug 2003
Location: Muskogee, Oklahoma
Posts: 848

I am definately not saying that I wouldn't whip a dog for not hunting because I have sure enough layed the wood to a few but some can take it and some can't. It is definately a dog to dog experience and only the handler should determine when and if she will need a little more "encouragement". The reason I say to get in the truck is so that there are less distractions and he or she won't be trying to pay attention to or "be his buddy" as John stated.
Yes beating her may work but she will actually be "leaving" the truck because she is afraid of getting whipped not because she wants to tree a coon. She may start hunting once she gets to the woods and tree coon but you are WAY farther ahead if you can "coax" her naturally ability out to where she is busting away from the truck in immediate search of a raccoon rather than out of fear.
I don't claim to know everything about dog training but I've learned alot about it by simply fixing problem dogs and by realizing there are absolutely no absolutes with dogs. What works with one may not work at all with another but the main thing that I have learned and what few people realize is that YOU ARE MUCH, MUCH FARTHER AHEAD WHEN YOU GET YOUR HOUND TO DO WHAT YOU WANT IT TO DO, WITH IT THINKING IT IS DOING WHAT IT WANTS TO DO! I know that's a little wordy,but think about, it's true. Good luck with her and again keep me posted on how she does and feel free to give me a call.

To answer your question about how long you should wait that is really up to you but I would wait at least 30 minutes and then load her up and go somewhere else and do it again and again and again.

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***GRNTCH LATE NITE BIG BUBBA 6/15/97 - 12/24/09***

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Registered: Dec 2006
Location: Sandy Hook, KY
Posts: 1009

i agree with you

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Registered: Jan 2005
Location: BLOOMFIELD IOWA
Posts: 2439

Why beat a dog? For most parts it will only scare them to death and not want to ever come in. Thats been my thought on beating hounds.

Beating a dog is like beating your kid. Shouldn't do it. Learn how the dog responds to what you want out of it. Will be better and you'll gain a friend!

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Bryan J.

SAVE THE COON, HUNT WITH A HOUND!

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Registered: Aug 2003
Location: Muskogee, Oklahoma
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There is a major differance in "beating" a hound and switching a hound at the correct time and in the correct manner to re-enforce a command or action. I totally agree that some hounds never need whipped and are easily trainable by a firm voice command. However many are not and I would even say that most are not. So if you want to get a point acrossed to them then you need to use a method that will get their attention. Thus I use a switch. To make a blanket statement that you should never correct a hound using force is not reasonable if you demand perfection. I have found it to be a very useful method of training and if done right will save you many, many nights of grief and frustration. The key to discipline is "relationship". If you are hunting your dog 4 to 6 nights a week like they should be (jmo) and you are taking care of them in the kennel and such and rewarding them when they do good, then a simple switching when they do something wrong will not scare them to death or make them afraid of you.

Just remember not to overlap your discipline and don't correct them for more than one problem at a time. This can be very confusing for hounds and can set them back, especially young dogs.

JMO, Nathan

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***GRNTCH LATE NITE BIG BUBBA 6/15/97 - 12/24/09***

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Registered: Dec 2006
Location: Sandy Hook, KY
Posts: 1009

you are excatley rite in my book

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Registered: Aug 2003
Location: Muskogee, Oklahoma
Posts: 848

Right on David. Good hunting to you.

Nathan

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Registered: Mar 2007
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Posts: 546

I would just let a couple caged coon go for her out in a couple open feilds with trees at night...always seemes to work, had the same problem with one of my males! good luck
take care and Happy huntin
Kellie

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Kellie Haney
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Registered: Aug 2003
Location: Muskogee, Oklahoma
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Kellie, I'm not saying that it wouldn't work for this female because obviously it worked for your dog. But what I've noticed by turning coon loose in front of a dog that will already hunt decently (just won't bust right off the lead) is that they start to think that there should always be a hot track within the first 50 to 100 yards. Your method is great for really young dogs and will help them learn to run track and to tree but in this situation I don't feel it will help his female bust to the woods any harder. She already knows what a coon is, she already knows how to run a track and how to tree the coon. Her issue is with a lack of desire to go immediately "hunt" for a coon the instant she is unsnapped, not how to run and tree one. I would hate for her to start checking back in after the first 100 yards or so when she didn't hit a hot track.

Again this is just my opinion based off of my experiences. I single my dogs out really young and have seen all different kinds issues when it comes to hunting hard alone and have learned a ton from each and every one. The main thing to remember is that there are no absolutes with hounds! Good hunting!!!!!

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***GRNTCH LATE NITE BIG BUBBA 6/15/97 - 12/24/09***

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Registered: Mar 2004
Location: Anthon, IA
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I think Nathan kind of nailed this one. As far as beating a dog you don't have to pummel them but you also need to let em know whose in charge sometimes. But like it's been said already some can take it and some can't depends on the dog. I guess I had my butt whipped a time or two and I don't hate my parents. More than likely had it coming. haha I kind of think that's the same way with dogs they usually know they screwed up most the time, when you give a little whipping.

I've tied one that didn't want to go hunting to the tailgate before and turned something loose in front of em that would go hunting. They'll get jealous and think there missing out so they might want to get in there next time.

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Registered: Aug 2003
Location: Muskogee, Oklahoma
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Sparky, I would have to agree about the parents part. Except maybe change "a time or two" to "about everyday". HAHA!

I have done the tie 'em to the tailgate trick as well and have had some success with it too.

Alot of people think that if the ablity doesn't show in "X" amount of trips to the woods that the ability must not be there. And in several cases it's not. But in alot of cases it's simply finding a way to coax it out. I have found that these one's that you have to coax along seem to finish out to a nicer 3 year old dog than alot of the 12 month old wonders. And I know I like the 12 month old wonders as well but it's almost like a handling a lit stick of dynamite, it can blow-up at any time. I've found that laying them up for 3 weeks or so when they seem to be losing the edge a little seems to clear their heads and bring them back around. Gotta love them young dogs.

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