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tjcc1978
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Registered: Jan 2019
Location: NM
Posts: 79

Problem Barking

Does anyone have suggestions to help alleviate problem barking in young B&T's? My male is almost 5 months old and has a barking problem. I was told not to use a bark collar on a coon hound for they won't bay at coons when you train them and when they go hunting. My female is almost 7 months old and she is not quite as bad as the male is.

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Old Post 11-10-2019 01:21 AM
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MARSHALL AYERS
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From past and present experience a bark collar will absolutely not effect them baying a coon or barking at all. 99% of hounds will associate wearing the collar in their kennel or at their home and not bark there. Take it off and they will bark at a Coon or in the woods just fine. Most hound once used to it will even test it to make sure it is on them and working.

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Old Post 11-10-2019 01:44 AM
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thomasg
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I WATCHED MY GRANDPA CHASE DOWN A WALKER DOG AND WHIP IT FOR RUNNING A DEER ONE TIME,I THOUGHT HE WAS A LITTLE TO ROUGH ON HIM AND QESTIONED HIM ABOUT IT,HE TOLD ME WHEN WHIPPING A DOG KIDD OR MAN GIVE IT TO THEM GOOD ENOUGH THEY WILL REAMBER IT THE REST OF THIER LIFE ,IF A DOG OR MAN DONT GET THE MEASAGE AFTER WHIPPING THEM THE SECOND TIME THEY DONT HAVE ANY SENCE PUT A BULLIT IN THEM ,I GOT ONE WHIPPING FROM HIM WITH A PEACH LIMB AND HE MADE A BELIEVER OUT OF ME,LOL

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Old Post 11-10-2019 02:16 AM
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DL NH
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Garmin Bark Limiter is a jewel in my book! Got 4 of them and they work great!

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Old Post 11-10-2019 03:18 AM
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Redneck Mafia
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? Are your dogs housed together? If your 2 pups aren't see if there is a way to take out a center panel in your kennel so they can be. Even if it has 2 houses I guarantee that they co sleep. Young pups get bored and together they are usually quieter. I have 4 pups in my yard right now and rarely hear a peep from them but they have space to roam and entertain each other. They are never separated until more mature and are at an age where they are hunted regularly wearing off enough energy that barking isn't a problem. Mine typically just run loose, a blessing here but at times they have to be kenneled they are housed together. If they were a little older or were be hunted and exercised regularly I would then recommend a bark collar or training collar.
I saw your post about feed on a previous post also. I would recommend fixing it where they are on full feed (always available) some use an automatic feeder I simply have a short plastic tote in the shed they sleep in (together) that we add a little to each day, it is never empty. New comers may eat more the first few days until they realize it's always there then levein out. There is also no problem with food aggression when never empty and pups never hungry. This also cuts down on the barking. A few things for them to chew on doesn't hurt either.

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Old Post 11-10-2019 05:18 AM
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DL NH
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Registered: Jan 2016
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quote:
Originally posted by tjcc1978
So is what I am being told by people at the local feed store inaccurate?

Are the Garmins really good? They are pretty spendy, so I wanna make sure they work like they're supposed to before purchasing.



The Garmin bark collars have been excellent for me. I wouldn't use them on young pups. Guess it would depend on circumstances for 7-8 mos olds. I definitely would not put them on any dogs kenneled together. Young dogs tend to play and often bark, yip or tussle when playing. This would set the collar off and likely make the one being stimulated think it was being done by its kennel mate. That could cause problems between the 2 dogs that could carry over to other dogs. Don't do that!

My dogs are kenneled individually and they work excellent for me when needed.

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Last edited by DL NH on 11-10-2019 at 02:22 PM

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Old Post 11-10-2019 02:19 PM
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Reuben
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Location: Freeport,TX
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The thing about dogs...always try to make sure kennels and fencing are built strong enough to contain dogs or they will get the mindset they can escape once they have...prevention is key...

Barking collars...I like Garmin on account the battery last a long time between charges and they are tough...having pups together with bark collars could possibly be a problem...they will chew them off each other and then really chew them up...

Things we can do to minimize barking...

Never encourage pups to bark when you are out by kennels...do not give them any attention when in kennel and they bark...

Only walk up to kennel and give attention when they don’t bark...

When you drive up to the house and they bark do not go to kennel and give attention...otherwise they will bark until you give attention...wait until they stop barking before you step out...or correct barking and stay in your house for about ten minutes before going out to kennels...you train them and don’t let them train you...

Also, if you try to correct them for barking and you half heartedly do it they will see it as worth doing because they got attention even though it came with slight punishment...

Sometimes without realizing it we encourage bad behavior from our pups and dogs...we just need to learn to be smarter than the dogs...I been around them for many years and still learning...

This is not a true fix but it helps quite a bit...
There are other things that can be done...

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Last edited by Reuben on 11-10-2019 at 03:35 PM

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Old Post 11-10-2019 02:25 PM
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houndsound
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Registered: Dec 2003
Location: Sheridan, WY
Posts: 1147

quote:
Originally posted by tjcc1978
So is what I am being told by people at the local feed store inaccurate?

They told me that if I put a bark limiter/collar on my coon hounds they won't bark at the coons when hunting. I read that somewhere on a google search as well. I do not want to ruin my dogs before they learn to hunt. But we can't have their barking becoming a nuisance.



The only way a bark collar, around the house, would stop them from barking at a coon in the field is if the dog is a really poorly bread junk dog.

When my hound was younger he wore one around the house all the time, and usually in the dog box when traveling to go hunting. Took it off and he would open like a champ on coon tracks.

And in general, yes most of what you hear at the feed store will not be accurate, lol.

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Old Post 11-10-2019 05:42 PM
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stxcoonhunter
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Garmin bark collar and all your problems will be solved end of story

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Old Post 11-15-2019 01:40 PM
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DL NH
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Registered: Jan 2016
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quote:
Originally posted by stxcoonhunter
Garmin bark collar and all your problems will be solved end of story


Ditto! The collars are easy! The dogs learn quickly!

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Old Post 11-15-2019 03:31 PM
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Reuben
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If these were my pups I would use the Garmin...but I would separate the pups otherwise they would chew each other’s collars off and ruin them...then I would follow the advice I gave on my earlier post to minimize and discourage barking...

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Last edited by Reuben on 11-15-2019 at 04:59 PM

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Old Post 11-15-2019 04:45 PM
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ov_blues
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Registered: Feb 2007
Location: Pomeroy, Ohio
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quote:
Originally posted by tjcc1978
A couple people above in this thread said not to put bark collars on them if they are together in the kennel...for now both my pups are in the kennel together.


Then you won't be able to bark collars on them. Before bark collars were invented the old ways were a switch, a rock thrown, a newspaper, a water hose, BB gun shot at metal around the building, yelling until a person was hoarse, etc etc etc. Other than chew toys to keep them busy or getting them out to get them worn down with a lot of exercise those are pretty much your option. If you don't like the options then you are probably going to have to learn to enjoy their barking. If it was me, I'd separate them, which they are plenty old enough to be separated, and buy a couple Garmin collars. I have 3 Dogtra's, 3 Garmin bark eliminators, 3 shock collars with no bark function, and one of another brand that I can't remember right off the top of my head. None of my hounds has a problem barking when I take them to the woods but they know when the collar is on them in the kennel. Some will test the collar every now and then and if they find out the collar was dead they would start their nuisance barking again. Some I can let the collar go dead, or turn it off, and even let it hang loosely on them and they won't bark at all in the kennel. Again, no problems with any of my hounds barking in the woods but it sure is nice to not hear them at various times during the day. Also I prefer the Garmin or a collar that has the function of increasing intensity. Some will bark a few times until the intensity goes up but then shut up. What I don't like about collars that you set manually is one bark gets them a harder shock right off of the bat so it is very unforgiving. A friend of mind has the PetSmart brand and he said for the most part they work well but he had one or two that they would bark thru the shock so he had to get another brand that gave the dog a little stronger medicine to get them to shut up.

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Old Post 11-15-2019 06:47 PM
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DL NH
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Registered: Jan 2016
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quote:
Originally posted by tjcc1978
A couple people above in this thread said not to put bark collars on them if they are together in the kennel...for now both my pups are in the kennel together.


That is true and I was one of them. If I were in your shoes I'd buy 2 collars.

Put a collar on each dog without turning them on for at least a week. Let them get use to having them on.

After at least a week turn on one on one dog. Leave the other turned off on the other dog. Alternate each day for a couple weeks. My bet is that after the first week both dogs will have curbed their barking drastically if not completely at least while they have the collars on.

You may find by letting them wear them for several days without being turned on that they won't realize it's the collar that is causing the discomfort but their barking. If they do you've got a win, win. If they don't they'll at least know that when the collar is on they'll get an uncomfortable response when they bark.

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Old Post 11-15-2019 06:58 PM
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DL NH
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Most any hunting dog supply company has them. Bruce Conkey who posts regularly on here sells them I believe. DU Hound and Hunting Supply has them. Gun Dog supply. All these people are knowledgeable dog people who I'm sure will be more than willing to help or answer any questions you may have. You can also go to Garmin direct. I believe you'll find the price stays the same across the board no matter who you get them from.

I have the Deluxe model personally and am quite pleased with their performance.

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Old Post 11-16-2019 12:00 AM
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Redneck Mafia
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Be prepared quite often pups try to chew on each others gadgets. Hopefully yours won't.

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Old Post 11-16-2019 04:46 AM
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DL NH
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quote:
Originally posted by Redneck Mafia
Be prepared quite often pups try to chew on each others gadgets. Hopefully yours won't.


Good point! Maybe put collars on first few days only when you're around to keep an eye on them. For the 1st week I'd leave the collars turned off. When you do turn them on do it while you are around home and set them on auotomatic. That setting starts out as a vibration and will progress up the line in intensity to stimulation if the dog continues to bark.

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Old Post 11-16-2019 12:49 PM
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Pat Bizich
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I sent you a PM .Please read it before buying any collar.
Also . Heads up . My own experience when putting bark collars with pups together. I have had them chew them off each other. I mean they actually ate the darn things.

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Old Post 11-16-2019 12:58 PM
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DL NH
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I'm assuming your talking about a system where you apply the correction.

In my opinion the answer is no simply because you need to be present to apply the correction. With the bark collars the correction happens wether you're there or not.

Brand is probably like choosing between GMC and Ford. My preference is Garmin (formerly Tri-Tronics) simply because they've been in the business the longest for canine electronic training devices. I know people who speak very highly of the Dogtra products as well.

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Old Post 11-17-2019 02:45 PM
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Reuben
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We talked about young dogs eating bark collars off of each other if kenneled together...and I have kept two to four pups at times and have learned that they will chew off each other’s collars...and pretty quickly too...

I like putting adjustable collars on them starting at 12 was. or so...even the real cheap ones from Walmart...but nothing really worked...

Then one day I got an idea while at the hardware store... I bought about 8ft. of stainless 1/4” chain and enough quick links to make collars out of the chain for each pup...I have a bolt cutter and cut out some pieces of chain and made them to have about 2 extra links hanging for puppy growth... when I finally cut down to which I keep I save the stainless collars for the next use...collars on young pups come in handy for lease training and other uses...

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Old Post 11-21-2019 03:11 PM
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DL NH
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I've done that for years with my beagles. Bought Slip Check collars from a guy out in MO I believe that made them. Worked great for pups. I don't like using them once they mature though. Prefer the center ring Dayglo collars once I start hunting them.

Don't know if that guy is still making those collars or not.

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Old Post 11-21-2019 04:52 PM
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DL NH
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Still being made.

slipcheck.com

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Old Post 11-21-2019 04:56 PM
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MUSKY
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I hate a dog that has to wear a bark collar all the time, if they don’t have enough sense to learn how to act around the house real quick like they aren’t going to stay hear long. Seems like this kind is getting harder to find all the time though.

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Old Post 11-28-2019 04:47 PM
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ov_blues
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I am pretty sure that if you put two pups in a pen and they play it is going to shock one or both due to the vibrations. I’d watch them very closely at first. Someone else has already mentioned that I believe.

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Old Post 11-30-2019 02:23 AM
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DL NH
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I would say no on attaching chain collar. The way the collar is made for one and secondly the adjustability factor f the chain collar. Also the chain would likely roll on the dogs neck which coul allow the transmitter or box to roll which likely would keep the contact points from making contact with the skin.

Personally, at the age these young dogs are now I'd separate them while you are trying to stop their barking. I would do this for several days without the collars activated. Leave the collars snug but not tight. When first introducing any training collar on my hounds, I'll put the deactivated collar on the dog for a week to 10 days. I'll fiddle around with the collar multiple times a day. Adjusting it, move it around put it on and off. This gets the dog use to having the collar fooled with. Then when you turn it on for real or need to adjust it they don't associate stimulation from the collar with something you've just done to the collar.

I'm sure others have different ideas that work as well but this has worked very well for me. If dog ever gets collar smart your done. They'll no it's the collar and be good while the collar is on but return to the unwanted behavior when it's off.

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Old Post 12-01-2019 02:13 PM
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