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Hightower
UKC Forum Member

Registered: Jun 2012
Location: central maryland
Posts: 90

Air Conditioning Q&A

During this heat wave I will be happy to answer any ?'s you guys might have to ease your suffering. A little backround on me. I have been in the HVAC trade for going on 15 years and am a licensed Master HVAC mechanic in the state of MD. I do not claim to have all the answers but I'm happy to help when and where I can.

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Old Post 07-06-2012 08:52 PM
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old ben
UKC Forum Member

Registered: Jan 2010
Location: Anderson co Tennessee
Posts: 1944

ok here it goes ill will b first thermo set on 74 inside temp 78 ???

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Old Post 07-06-2012 09:41 PM
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gmurdoch
UKC Forum Member

Registered: Sep 2011
Location: maryland
Posts: 11

q&a

first off, is everything running indoor and out. If so, go to your condensing unit out side and look at the larger insulated line at your outdoor unit. It should be sweating and cold to the touch. the major components that should be running are your indoor fan, and outdoors your condenser fan motor and compressor. let me know what you have and we will go from there. just so nobody is confused hightower is my user name from my work terminal. I am home now so g murdoch and hightower are the same.

Last edited by gmurdoch on 07-06-2012 at 10:40 PM

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Old Post 07-06-2012 10:37 PM
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garminguru
UKC Forum Member

Registered: Nov 2011
Location:
Posts: 856

I will go next..... How does a unit that is low on freon cause the radiator thingy to freeze over? Seems to me if it was low it could not freeze?
Is it better for the unit to cycle on and off or run several hours straight before cycling off? I know on mine, after about noon or 1pm, you can forget about it cycling off until about 10-11 pm. I can set the thermostat on 70 and during the day it will get up to 85 in the house and never get down to 70 to cut off. The first thing most people will say is something must be wrong but I know if I was not running the AC it would probably be 125 in this single wide.... No shade much here. So I figure it is keeping it at least 40 degrees cooler than what it would be if it was not on at all. What say you? What should the temp difference be between the intake to the AC and the closest output of the AC?

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Old Post 07-06-2012 10:51 PM
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lil_joe
UKC Forum Member

Registered: Oct 2011
Location: southern indiana
Posts: 823

ac

Our place has no shade at all, its been around 102-105 and I keep the thermostat at 72 . Normally around 4-6 its the hottest here its stays about 80-83 in the house until after 10-11 I just figure its doing a good job keeping it as cool as it does..
PS: we have the place insulated pretty well. Its just really hot outside and black shingles+no shade makes it that much harder on the unit.

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Old Post 07-06-2012 11:06 PM
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Derek Johnson
UKC Forum Member

Registered: May 2010
Location: Mt. Erie, IL
Posts: 161

In extreme heat it is not uncommon for your system to run continuously during the heat of the day and it is also not uncommon for the temp in the house to be a couple degrees higher than your desired temp in very hot and/ or humid conditions. However, as the sun goes down and the outside temp. drops you should see you temps starting to catch back up. One thing to remember is with your system running more during these major hot spells you need to check your filters more often as they are seeing more use from more run time. If your filter is not clean enough to get the required amount of return air back through the system it can cause your coil to freeze up. Another good idea is to make sure your condenser coil on your outdoor unit is clean and if it isnt then shut the unit of and rinse it thoroughly with a garden hose and this will help your pressures stay more regular and help prevent system failure.

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Old Post 07-07-2012 05:07 AM
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Derek Johnson
UKC Forum Member

Registered: May 2010
Location: Mt. Erie, IL
Posts: 161

lil joe try this and it will help you determine whether your system is doing all it can or if you should have a service tech out to take a look. Put a thermometer by your return air vent and wait until the temp stabilizes then take a temp at your supply register (where the cool air is blowing out) subtract the supply temp from the return temp. If your system use R22 refrigerant this number should be roughly 18 to 20 if it uses 410 refrigerant your number might be slightly lower 16 to 20. By the way if your duct work is in the attic let the system run awhile to cool the duct work down to take a more accurate split as the duct work will be hotter up there than if it were under you home. Hope this helps you!

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Old Post 07-07-2012 05:17 AM
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gmurdoch
UKC Forum Member

Registered: Sep 2011
Location: maryland
Posts: 11

coil freeze ups

are usually caused by one of two things. Poor air flow which typically turns out to be a dirty filter. The other cause is typically a low charge. I would say something is going on there. Derick was on the money with checking the air temp. In a perfect world there should be 20 degrees difference between supply temp and return temp. I would be real happy with anything over 14 in this weather. If your air flow is adequate, I would say call someone and give a shot of gas, after the leak check of course.

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Old Post 07-07-2012 02:38 PM
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Hightower
UKC Forum Member

Registered: Jun 2012
Location: central maryland
Posts: 90

please delete

bbb

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Old Post 07-09-2012 11:26 AM
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