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mink
UKC Forum Member

Registered: Feb 2009
Location: B.F.E
Posts: 34

A Question to a Auto mechanic

i've got an '97 f150 automatic 4x4 truck thats doing something funny.
every once in a while when it shifts it feels like your goin over speed bumps.
some are worse than others ...
what can i do to fix this.

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Old Post 02-28-2010 06:26 PM
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POTOMAC
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Registered: Jul 2007
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sounds like tourqe converter shudder/if you change the fluid it will help but ford has an updated converter for this problem.if you need more info call 571-233-5819 joe zinn

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Old Post 02-28-2010 08:12 PM
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mink
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Registered: Feb 2009
Location: B.F.E
Posts: 34

alright, will do this

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Old Post 03-01-2010 12:21 AM
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Ray Lilly
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Registered: May 2009
Location: Valdosta, GA
Posts: 568

quote:
Originally posted by POTOMAC
sounds like tourqe converter shudder/if you change the fluid it will help but ford has an updated converter for this problem.if you need more info call 571-233-5819 joe zinn

This is what I would say or it could be a fowled spark plug or coil pack but a 97 should'nt have coil packs.I've had a 98 and a 2000 and when there down a cylinder they will shudder like this when it shifts(or under a load) and you may think it's the transmission. Is the check engine light on? If it's shuddering that bad and it's down a cylinder it wont be long before the check engine light comes on.

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Old Post 03-01-2010 12:27 AM
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Ray Lilly
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Registered: May 2009
Location: Valdosta, GA
Posts: 568

Re: A Question to a Auto mechanic

By the way i'm not a mechanic but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.lol

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Old Post 03-01-2010 12:35 AM
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mink
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Registered: Feb 2009
Location: B.F.E
Posts: 34

the light hasnt came on

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Old Post 03-01-2010 08:54 PM
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Ray Lilly
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Registered: May 2009
Location: Valdosta, GA
Posts: 568

quote:
Originally posted by mink
the light hasnt came on

Sometimes it will take the light a while to come on. It has to be skipping real bad.

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Old Post 03-01-2010 11:03 PM
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POTOMAC
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Registered: Jul 2007
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ive only worked for ford for 29 years and i will guarantee you the problem you described is converter shudder. change the fluid and they have an additve. if its hasnt smoked the tcc clutch you can change the fluid every 30k and it should last, but the real fix is replace the converter.

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Old Post 03-01-2010 11:23 PM
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Sparky
UKC Forum Member

Registered: Mar 2004
Location: Anthon, IA
Posts: 354

I've had the same problem with an f150, like joe said it's the converter.

Joe,
I've got a question for you. My hunting truck's a 93 150 with a 5.0, that runs bad. It will cut out sometimes,it will die, starts hard sometimes, makes a little ping sometimes, that my buddy said is conbustion firing. No engine light has come on , we put it on the computer and it got no codes to show up. I replaced the 02 sensor, new plugs and wires, cap and rotor. Could it be a timing problem or do you have any ideas for me. It's getting horrible milage 5 to 6 mpg. Thanks in advance.

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Old Post 03-02-2010 03:03 AM
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POTOMAC
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Registered: Jul 2007
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ck bbase timing/10deg. btdc/fuel press should be 35 -42psi and if both those readings are good then you propably got a stuck closed egr valve. call for more info 571-233-5819note you can take an o2 sensor out of a ford and you wont have a driveability cond. like you will iin other cars lines. gm.honda toy etc... another waste of 80 bucks. 90 per. of problem with older vehicles is base eng. tim/fuel press etc...

Last edited by POTOMAC on 03-02-2010 at 11:30 AM

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Old Post 03-02-2010 11:28 AM
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Sparky
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Registered: Mar 2004
Location: Anthon, IA
Posts: 354

ok thanks alot Joe. If I can't get it I'll give you a ring.

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Old Post 03-02-2010 01:45 PM
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wvhounds
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Registered: Jun 2003
Location: "The Mountain State" Where it's uphill both ways!
Posts: 3127

I've got 1 for ya, I have a completely stock 2006 F-250 Amarillo, Power Stroke, it has factory alum. 20" wheels. in the last two days I've noticed two with cracks in the wheels one bad, one hair line that has gotten worse, left front was the first, I put the spare on the back moved that to the left front, now it has one starting I've called the local dealership they said sorry but not their problem, BUT they will be glad to sell me more for $1,176.00 each. I've ordered new after market wheels and tires for it but is this a common issue? I can't understand how there could be a problem with my truck that would crack a heavy duty wheel and not wear on a tire at all in 40,000 miles. Any ideas?



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Old Post 03-02-2010 03:41 PM
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POTOMAC
UKC Forum Member

Registered: Jul 2007
Location:
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oh yeah. that is propably the 4th wheels ive seen cracked like that. as far as im concerned it should be covered under warr. no matter how old or miles. poor quality.but i could tell you some things that you propably wouldnt believe. bottom line i use to be die hard ford for along time but really after the early 90s im not much on there product or there procedures to fix them. for ex, 6,0 powerstroke yeah thats a good one. call me for more info 571233-5819

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Old Post 03-02-2010 08:51 PM
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POTOMAC
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i put 300 sets of steel wheels on police cars /recall/ they got it right the 2nd time wrong had to replace all of thhem again. note how long have we been producing steel wheels?

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Old Post 03-02-2010 08:53 PM
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wvhounds
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Registered: Jun 2003
Location: "The Mountain State" Where it's uphill both ways!
Posts: 3127

really nice talking to ya, appreciate it!!

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Old Post 03-02-2010 10:52 PM
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sunkist
UKC Forum Member

Registered: Aug 2005
Location: King City, Mo.
Posts: 235

Question

Any help would be appreciated. I've a 93 4x4 S-10 4.3 v6 Auto. that will more than likley need a rebuild. I just bought this truck off a kid to hunt out of and he said it would pull it'self but would not go in reverse at all I picked the truck up for 500 dollars in hopes it wouldn't take a whole lot to fix it. The kid described exactly what the truck is doing, it almost acts like it has 2 gears maybe hung together when you give it gas it seems like it pulls the motor down but it will move. So is it hard to pull and do it yourself rebuild and what would the cost run compared to having it done, or could it just need the gears replaced. If it is not a hard job is there anywhere on line that may give a step by step process on doing a rebuild on the transmission.

Thanks

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Old Post 03-02-2010 11:20 PM
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POTOMAC
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Registered: Jul 2007
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i wouldnt suggest a harry homeowner attempting an auto trans o/haul. tha going rate is 2 to 2500 to complete whole job that is a list price i can do them if i pull for 1000.00 to 1200.00 with new converter. if you pull and bring to me 600 to 800; but you best bet would be get a junkyard trans propably cheaper the removal and install are not that bad. if you need morer info calll 571-233-5819. by the way rev. is a mechanical /hyd. gear no electronics involved in reverse

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Old Post 03-02-2010 11:49 PM
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Tree Rock'n
UKC Forum Member

Registered: Apr 2005
Location: Georgia
Posts: 229

Got a ? for you

98 ford ranger 4.0 Had new heads and head gasket and its still losing water and smoking (steaming out the tail pipe)

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Old Post 03-03-2010 12:41 AM
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POTOMAC
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have you driven it long enough to get out excess anti. from catalytic converter? really if the truck has any miles on it you would have been better to put and engine in it. with new heads it will put alot of press on the piston rings and eventually start blowing oil by the rings. i know this is not what you want to here but its the facts.the blocks deck could have hot spots are been warped itself.they have a die kit to ck for co2 in the cooling sys. is it overheating.coolant in the oil are just steam out tailpipe. some steam can be normal on humid cool mornings but once it heats up it should stop. need more info or call 571-233-5819

Last edited by POTOMAC on 03-03-2010 at 01:20 AM

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Old Post 03-03-2010 01:14 AM
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Tree Rock'n
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Registered: Apr 2005
Location: Georgia
Posts: 229

quote:
Originally posted by POTOMAC
either the heads are warped or cracked in the guides. did you get it hot? how many miles? did you have the nheads checked/magnifluxxed or atleast ck with straight edge.
The mech I took it to said the heads were cracked so he said he put new heads and gaskets on it got it back and same thing loseing water and smoking took it back he said water in the belly of the muffer where they changed the heads to drive it a few days it would clear up.Nope still doing it.Not run hot since i have had it but have not had it to long. Got 110 000 on it. Thanks

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Old Post 03-03-2010 01:33 AM
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Sparky
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Registered: Mar 2004
Location: Anthon, IA
Posts: 354

Shane,
I just bought a transmission from a junkyard that was rebuilt by certified transmission for 700 bucks. My buddy does all my stuff for me. He teaches at the college around here and only 23, pretty sharp. He would help you out.

Joe,
my buddy said everything you said could factor into my problems.Thanks alot'

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Old Post 03-03-2010 04:43 AM
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southernthunder
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Mink,

go to your local O'reily auto part store and buy a little red tube of shudder fix. pour it in your transmission, let it warm up, and go driving around awhile. it is a very cheap fix and has worked on several different transmissions. that is the cheapest fix for your problem. the most common fix is to drop the valve body, and install a transgo shift improver kit that fixes the governor plug, and other common leaking valve plugs. they are the main reason the transmission has shuddering problems due to loss of fluid pressure during shifts.


Sunkist,

the only thing wrong with your transmission is that it has broken the splines to the sun gear. it is a common problem with that transmission. it will have to be repaired at your local transmission shop. if you don't have one and don't live to far, you can bring it to my shop Reliable Transmissions in Stigler, Ok. and i will fix it. i bet when you drive forward it only has 1st and 3rd gears as well. it probably feals like it takes a long time to finally shift. no cheap way to fix it, it has to come out and be repaired.


eddie harp

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POTOMAC
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Registered: Jul 2007
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unfortunatley with 110.000 miles the only thing he should have put in it was a new or reman engine. like i said deck could be bad/even blocked could be cracked. the best answer with out replacing eng. would be trade it in. now on the other hand the man that diagnos your problem as heads only should stand behindd his job if its not repaired. as i said earlier anti freeze will take sometimes 50 miles to completely burn out of exhaust. sounds like you have driven that so i would start back where you spent your hard earned money for the heads and see what they will stand behind.

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