Registered: Apr 2006
Location:
Posts: 6548

quote:

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Originally posted by checkered flag
1 dog year is about 7 human years therefore........
I think of a pup as a child if the pup is 6 mos old then I think of a 2 and a half to 3 year old child. Would I expect a 3 yr old child to understand what I am tryin to tell this puppy?

I belive a lot of people think this dog is bred good it should know to jump in the dog box.....

I've seen it. and a should know from the day it's born that a racoon will climb a tree. HA HA !!!!!

You have to lots of time with a puppy and lots and lots of patience

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Registered: May 2009
Location: Tonkawa Oklahoma
Posts: 5587

They have age charts for differant size dogs. I think most of them are way off. Even in the same size dog some mature differant than others.
I personaly would say most hounds would be like a 10 year old kid at six months an early to mid teens at one year. Second year would be early 20's and 3 rd. birthday early 30's. Being in dogs all my life and in child care for 12 years and haveing 2 of my own that is just the feel I got for them over the years.

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Registered: Apr 2006
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20 at 2yrs how old is that at 6-7 yrs where there are a lot
of world champions?60 maybe

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Registered: Jul 2005
Location: Nemo
Posts: 110

quote:

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Originally posted by CX3
I would say the number one pup destroyer is lack of hunting. If you look on the for sale boards dang near every dog on there is for sale cause they "dont have time to hunt it"


There are lots of well bred pups that could make a nice coondog if just given half a chance.

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Registered: Jun 2003
Location: Lumpkin, Ga
Posts: 8757

Lack of knowlege and lack of patience.

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Johnny Williams

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Registered: Jan 2004
Location: Northwest Georgia
Posts: 1630

I start and sell a good amount of pups , and believe the roll cage is like the e- collar , a valuable tool..
It makes the pups very coon minded , they love the work out and you play games while their young, hiding it.. The pups will soon come out of the kennel like rockets looking for a coon.
Soon you start turning the coon loose before you let them out and let them pick it up them selves , run and tree....
When you take these pups to the woods they are ready , have had many tree the first or second night in the woods in these N. Georgia mountains and not on buckets.
Doug Blackwell of Kentucky River Training hunts some older started dogs for us , and says he wished he had alot more like we send him.......
So like Elvis says know your Genetics ..................

OH yea , young fellas these dogs you have now will tree, work on other stuff.

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Registered: Sep 2008
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 128

I think comparing dogs age to human age is very misleading. A 1 year old dog is just that, a 1 year old dog. All dogs mature differantly. I think this is a great thread, keep it coming. Lets hear some pros and cons on starting pups on feeders and buckets. Guy

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Waynoka Ok.

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Registered: Jan 2004
Location: Northwest Georgia
Posts: 1630

Cowboy , I will give you my opinion , I dont like a dog going to a learned spot , i want them to have to learn to hunt where coons naturally feed , gullys , slews etc....deep on the side of the mountain lol....

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Striving to breed balanced Treeing Walkers.

"Life is short boys, Hunt an intelligent hound"

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Registered: Jun 2006
Location: Platteville, Wi
Posts: 5676

quote:

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Originally posted by CONRAD FRYAR
Cowboy , I will give you my opinion , I dont like a dog going to a learned spot , i want them to have to learn to hunt where coons naturally feed , gullys , slews etc....deep on the side of the mountain lol....

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Registered: May 2009
Location: Tonkawa Oklahoma
Posts: 5587

quote:

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Originally posted by Dan Dogs
exactly, they will never learn to get coon smart..

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Registered: Dec 2005
Location: central illinois
Posts: 453

First of all I beleive most great coondogs are born not trained. By this I mean they are born with the natural ability, instincts and brains. You can tweek them a little with good training but they either have it or they dont. Second always remember brains is the most important trait. If a dog has a lotta brains and good "coon sence" he will learn to overcome his natural weaknesses. Third "Quality not Quanity". When the time comes to start hunting the young dog pick places, weather conditions etc. that make it easy for him to succeed. Make your hunts short but successfull and quit on a good note. I've seen a lot of young dogs ruined by trying to start them when conditions are so tough it would be hard for an old veteran to tree coon and look good. By doing this young dogs will start bad habits such as junk runnin etc. Last of all once they are doin it poor the hunting on them. By thereselves. In order to "finish" a dog they have to be hunted hard by themselves. Just some of my theories that have worked for me.

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Registered: Jan 2006
Location: Sapulpa, OK
Posts: 10

I love the comparison of the dog and a baseball player. I played alot of baseball growing up and I think of it this way.

First: 1 year in dog = 7 years human

so

at 12 months old, when alot of guys are pushing and pushing these young dogs, that corresponds to taking a 7 year old boy and making him play baseball every single night.

Yeah, some of the pups are exceptional and turn out to be superstars.

But its like this, if you have a 6 month old pup, and that equals a 3.5 year old kid. So, if your 3.5 year old goes and picks up a beer can, do you think it is best to just whip the piss out of him and break him right then and there so hard that he will never drink when he grows up?

My theory, altough unproven, is to start with one, work until they are 2-3 or say 14-21 in human, where they should show some significant signs of ability and you will know if they are gonna amount to anything, then start again. Always keeping a young one coming up behind them, that you can be excited about and replace them with if you have to cull them.

At 14-18 years old, most humans know if they have exceptional or even decent athletic ability, or if they are best suited to cut hair. Sure, you can work and work a kid who really aint that gifted, and eventually he may squeak into the big leagues.


In my limited experience, I have heard alot of guys give up on a young dog when they dont go out and perform the first or second or tenth time. Now, yes itd be nice to have one that did the very first time to the woods, anyone can make somethin out of that, but until I get my hands on one like that, ill just keep usin the toroise strategy.
I also really believe, its all about time and patience. Consistency is also a key ingredient. There are thousands of methods to achieve things, but I will say this. If you start a pup at 6 weeks old, and everytime he hears you whistle he gets a little bite of jerky when he gets to you, it dont take long before he comes everytime you whistle.
I personally think you get a mediocre dog that has been trained properly, they are more enjoyable to hunt than a superstar professional athlete that race horses in there and dont even tell you thanks for the ride to the woods.
Now, I dont wanna have to train one to tree, or show it how to trail, and i also dont wanna spend 2 hours every nite hollerin for it, chasin it down, beating its brains out or anything else.

I am looking for lines of dogs that trail naturally, tree naturally, and are dogs everywhere else. I think once this is found, then taking them to places where coon are, they will get faster and faster about goin to find a coon, then faster and faster about tracking one, then better and better at checking trees and getting it right.

May take the rest of my life but I hope someday i find it.

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Posts: 139

I have sat here and read all of this and I feel like I did learn some things that I really never gave much thought. This is just my opinion but here is where I stand, every single hound owner and breeder needs to be more selective in their breeding program! I believe that there are far to many dogs bred just to have a litter of pups to sell. This is WRONG and I feel that we all should do our best to " better the breed" ! I have noticed with young dogs that if they are born of two "true" coondogs then it makes life more pleasant for pup and trainer. I know that sometimes two worthless dogs can breed "super cooner " but it's rare. Every pup is different just like humans and you gotta have patience, drive, and try to think on the pups level. Usually the pups are smarter than me and when I think like them it all starts coming together! But I strongly believe better breeding is where it starts!!!

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france

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Registered: Jan 2006
Location: Elk Garden, WV
Posts: 487

quote:

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Originally posted by CX3
I would say the number one pup destroyer is lack of hunting. If you look on the for sale boards dang near every dog on there is for sale cause they "dont have time to hunt it"


There are lots of well bred pups that could make a nice coondog if just given half a chance.

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Registered: Jul 2003
Location: Columbus, Ks
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Good post Craig.

I start hauling a pup about 6 months old. If they don't show some interest after a few nights and/or coon they stay in the pen until 7 then 8 months old. When the figure out the porgram, that coon climb trees but not treeing much they get put up or hunted alone.

I never put a shock collar or bark collar on a pup.

I don't let a pup get ate up by a coon until they get to thinking there pretty tough.

If a pup babbles eliminate the cause of the babble. Hunt them with a slower moving old dog or by themselves.

How many have thrown coon back for the pups to tree on or short drags? The coon is in sight normally. The drag is OK but put scent on the tree and don't leave the coon in sight. After the pup trees on the scent for a minute or so then let them see the coon again.

Never get a slick tail out for a pup but don't hit one for treeing one. They need to be treeing coon pretty regular before breaking them. Then don't hit them, use a treatment not associated with the handler. Be carful shocking them on fast game and don't until they get to be a problem child. A little track experience won't hurt a young dog. Don't worry too much about showing them this coon or that one. If your hunting the pup right they will see plenty.

Put the pup in the woods alone if they will go hunting a short distance from you. Don't hit one in attempt to get them to go hunitng. You may have to walk them a few times to get them started. When they tree a coon give them a reward.

I prefer starting a pup with a slow to medium track dog that opens freely, solid treedog but lazy tree barker, straight, not an overpowering treedog and no rough stuff.

I prefer a pup that is pretty agressive on a coon so I don't have to be as carful. A few jump races doesn't seem to hurt. Leaving one tied pretty often when the coon comes out doesn't hurt.

I handle too many pups to get attached. Most of the top hounds that I have seen treed good early in life. After a couple hunts and coon seen. All they needed was exposure. When a pup gets to treeing good I never pet it on a tree. I may lead it back from the tree and pet it.

If you can let a pup run loose until their running and treeing your ahead of the game.

If a pup doesn't have enough gas by the time their 8 months old to go every other night their tenure will be short at my place.

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Registered: Jun 2003
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My dog Is 8 months old, and Is now a proud dad.

Who has a son thats 7 years old, thats a proud dad???

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