Registered: Jun 2003
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I have a problem that maybe someone on here can tell me how to solve or what I am missing.

I have a 12 month old pup that I've had since he was about 6-7 months old. He's a darn nice pup and smarter than most I have had before, very quick to pick things up.

The problem I have is the pup won't come all the way to you when called. He's not really shy, he is just in-different. When you call him, he knows his name and will come running wether it's in the woods or in the yard and will come within a few feet of you, but won't let you get your hands on him. In the kennel he is happy to see you, barking, wagging his tail, jumps on the end of the kennel to greet you, but put your hand in to pet him and he pulls his head away.

I have tried putting him on a leash/rope and worked with him in the yard. He comes on the dead run back to you when called and will rub all over you...comes right to you. I have shut him inside my shed running loose and he will do the same thing.....

Take him hunting and most of the time you can catch him in the woods or if you leave the dog box door open, he will simply get in himself. If he don't then you can hardly catch him at the truck...he'll be close within 10-20 feet and wont run away, just won't come all the way in.

I have NEVER disciplined him or hit or abused him, but he sure acts like someone did.

What do I do to get him over this.....I am starting to think he is smarter than me and I also think he's going to turn into a really nice dog!

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Registered: Oct 2006
Location: Wilkesboro, NC
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TREATS!!!!!!

I had the same problem. I had a young female that was doing the same thing. I finally got some of those Ol' Roy jerky strips at Wal-mart. I started by putting her on a long cable in the yard and letting her play for about 30 min. Then went out and called her to me...holding the treat in one hand and the other extended out towards her.....It took a couple of time for her to realize I was holding a treat, but then she came around. I would only give her the treat if I could put my hands on her first. She got use to coming to me, so I started to take the treats away, every now and then I would give her one. I also did this in the woods. Now she comes whenever you call, even when she is treed!

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Registered: Jun 2003
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Posts: 737

Countrygirl,

I have tried the treat route. He doesn't seem to care about them. What is odd, if I have another pup out and call it to me, he will come right in. LOL

Thanks Doug, I sent you one back!

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Registered: Aug 2003
Location: Indiana
Posts: 6168

Let me ask you a question.

When you catch him in the woods, what then? What do you do with the pup? Put him up...take him to another spot?

Sounds to me like the little dog does not want to stop hunting. He enjoys being "free" and has figured out that when he is called in the woods, that it's time to quit....so the obvious answer is to "stall". Like a little kid needing a drink of water, and a treat, and this, and that...just before bed time.

The treats will work, but it's not the root of the problem. Make sure that after you get him caught a few times that you turn him loose again.....break the association between coming to you in the woods and getting put up....

I may be all wet...but I'd bet this will help some.

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I JUST GOT A NEW PUP A COUPLE WEEKS AGO. SHE DOES THE SAME THING. SHE IS NOT SHY AT ALL. GO, GO, GO, NOSE ON THE GROUND ALL THE TIME. CALL HER IN, SHE COMES, BUT WILL STOP JUST BEFORE I CAN REACH HER. SHE IS KEPT IN A 10 x 10 KENNEL WHEN I AM NOT HOME. SHE GETS TO RUN FREE A BIG PART OF THE DAY. WHEN YA COME OUTSIDE SHE IS REAL HAPPY TO SEE ME. SHE WILL RUN LIKE THE DEVIL TO GET TO ME, BUT PUTS ON THE BRAKES RIGHT BEFORE I CAN TOUCH HER. SHE WILL COME IN ALL THE WAY TO ME WITH THE OTHER PUP, BUT I BETTER BE QUICK, ONE SHOT IS ALL I GET...LOL...

I HAVE JUST BEEN HOPING THAT IT IS JUST BEING STUBBORN ABOUT GOING BACK INTO THE PEN. SHE IS SO INDEPENDENT, SHE DOESN"T CARE ANYTHING ABOUT COMING UP AND PLAYING WITH ME LIKE THE OTHER PUP, JUST GO, GO, GO THE WHOLE TIME SHE IS OUT.

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Every pup I ever had did the same thing. I put a shock collar on them and that solves that prpblem very quickly. I don't care why they come when I call them, I just want them to come when I call them.

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Registered: Feb 2004
Location: West Kill, NY
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he is a high energy dog and didn't want to go home, he wanted to stay out hunting.
What cured him was a several part program.

First, I tried the treats. That worked if I wanted to get him into the car when we were in the yard, but was useless in the woods. With a choice between more hunting time and a treat, the hunting time won every time. However, sometimes a bowl of water did bring him in.

Second, I found that if someone else reached out and grabbed him, he was much more willing to be caught. He knew I was going to load him up and bring him home, but he never figured other people were trying to load him up and bring him home. Sort of embarassing, but at least he got caught. He always came in for me when I called, but danced around just out of reach.

After awhile, I made a point of only turning him out when I had time to exhaust him before calling. I would take him out during the day and road him for miles and miles until he was more than willing to come when I called!

That caused a new problem. When I wanted to load him up to go home, he would posiition himself in front of the Jeep and want to road all the way home... That wasn't always possible. At that point, one lesson with the tritronics was all it took.

Right from the start, he had no problem getting caught at the tree. By the time he had treed, he was always willing to leave the woods. Taught me that I needed to turn him out where there was a good chance he would get treed ; )

By the way, at 3, I have no more problem with any of this. All it takes is a severe tone to correct him when he is acting bratty.

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Registered: Jun 2003
Location: Anchorage,Ak
Posts: 1727

Teach them to SIT! there just jerking your chain. if he won't come when hunting and you are able ot do it then get in the truck and drive a mile or 2 down the road. If he is as smart as you say then sit should be an easy command to learn. No sit No hunt.

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Registered: Feb 2007
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Start out with the rope in the yard, call him and get him to come to you by pulling on the rope sharply when he doesn't come straight to you. Then after your sure that he knows what you are expecting put a shocking collar on him and give him low intensity shocks until he comes all the way to you. They figure out real quick that when they get to you the shocking stops and now you've conditioned him in the yard and if you have to do it in the woods then you shouldn't have any problem with him bolting if you have to shock him in the woods.

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Hoosier, I hate pm's! Everytime I respond, the message in response to what you wrote ends up being too long and it won't go through....

I have never had a dog riun away when it got zapped. If your dog knows you, likes you and trusts you, it will always run to you when it gets shocked. You are it's safety zone. I use the lowest level that will get their attention and I call them while useing the correction. It is quick, it is easy and it doesn't require much retraining. Treats and other gommicks are just that, gimmicks. It all sounds good on paper but almost anyone can get their dog to handle like a show dog in 5 minutes with a TriTronics. You won't be climbing into blowdowns or bulldoze piles no more, and the first time your dog is across the river with the collar on, you will find out how nice it is to call them across instead of swimming to them. If I'm not known for anything else, anyone that hunts with me knows I can catch any dog I own anytime I want, no matter what that dogs is doing....as long as they can hear me.
The downside is they will come to you everytime they hit a hotwire and it purty much makes the e collar useless for other things such as a dog that leaves trees or mills because when they get a shock, they are comimg to you no matter what.
Many trainers are dead set against useing fear as a training tool but I have no problem with the fact that my dogs come when called because they are afraid not to.

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I started out useing the rope as instructed in the TriTronics manuel. The dog wouldn't get away from me with the rope on. I couldn't even chase him away. The next one would get away but got tangled up in the rope, then I got tangled in the rope and I gave up. It's just like those horse traing vids, my horse NEVER does what the vids says he will do.
Just take the dog to the woods in the daytime and go for a walk. When you are ready to catch the dog, if the dog don't wanna get caught, pop him as you are calling him. Pop him till he comes. Keep the collar on till he reaches the point where it is no longer nessessary to collar them. It usually doesn't take many lessons. When he gets in a bulldoze pile, call him and pop him till he comes out. He gets across water, call him and pop him till he crosses and comes. Keep it just that simple.

Last edited by on 11-07-2007 at 04:12 PM

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Registered: Jun 2003
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Posts: 737

Thanks Jim & Joe,

I will give er a go with the magic necklace. I really think and hope that it won't take much. I have also thought that what Joe said may play into it...he just wants to keep going. Starting this week, he won't have that excuse, he will be wanting to stop cause his butt is going to be draggin!

The rope usually does the trick for me, but with the rope on, he handles to the "T". EVERYTIME. SMART !

He's gonna learn that daddy just wised up a little...(I hope).

Jim, I am like you in that regard. I want my dogs to handle and won't keep one that won't. I won't/don't expect my dog to come to me if they are TREED or running track, but if they aren't opening, they better be heading my direction. I have had a few I could call off a tree across a creek.

THANKS GUYS !

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Registered: Mar 2005
Location: Pilot Mtn, NC
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quote:

---

Originally posted by Oak Ridge
Let me ask you a question.

When you catch him in the woods, what then? What do you do with the pup? Put him up...take him to another spot?

Sounds to me like the little dog does not want to stop hunting. He enjoys being "free" and has figured out that when he is called in the woods, that it's time to quit....so the obvious answer is to "stall". Like a little kid needing a drink of water, and a treat, and this, and that...just before bed time.

The treats will work, but it's not the root of the problem. Make sure that after you get him caught a few times that you turn him loose again.....break the association between coming to you in the woods and getting put up....

I may be all wet...but I'd bet this will help some.

---

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Registered: Sep 2007
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tri-tronics has a good solution to this problem and many other

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Registered: Jun 2003
Location: Central Michigan
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Howdy Scott,

Tri Tronics is a great tool if you get your hound accustomed to them in the yard first, and ya don't even have to tie yourself up like Jim.

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Registered: Jun 2003
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Posts: 737

Guys,

Thanks for all the replies. We will try the magical necklace and see if that don't resolve the problem. Hopefully between that and huntin the hair off of him the next few weeks, he will come right around.

Now how much Ivomec do I give him? LMAO

NO NO NO please don't answer that...i already know. I can't stand another IVOMEC thread.

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Registered: Jan 2005
Location: Crystal Michigan
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I was out coonhunting with a fella one night, who, and I am not kidding, broke out the Burger King bag. He started ruffling it and shaking it. 45 minutes later he caught his dog. Normally it worked he said. Apparantly the dog liked it's french fries or something....

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Registered: Jun 2003
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I've ridden with ya a couple of times............... I can't say that I blame the dog for not wanting to get back in the truck....







Sounds like you've gotten plenty of help already.

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Registered: Sep 2003
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quote:

---

Originally posted by JiM
Every pup I ever had did the same thing. I put a shock collar on them and that solves that prpblem very quickly. I don't care why they come when I call them, I just want them to come when I call them.

---

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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Hoosier
[B]I have a problem that maybe someone on here can tell me how to solve or what I am missing.

I have a 12 month old pup that I've had since he was about 6-7 months old. He's a darn nice pup and smarter than most I have had before, very quick to pick things up.

The problem I have is the pup won't come all the way to you when called. He's not really shy, he is just in-different. When you call him, he knows his name and will come running wether it's in the woods or in the yard and will come within a few feet of you, but won't let you get your hands on him.


so what have you been doing with the dog for 6 mths
if you cant catch him in the back yard?let me guess
you threw him in a muddy pen and left him till season.
i have never had a dog i couldnt catch in the backyard
in 6mths and i didnt want to catch them in the woods
till they treed something

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Registered: Jan 2006
Location: Everywhere
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I would try a 20 foot check cord, the dog wearing the tritronics, and the collar turned off. I do this with all my dogs...I say one word, HERE and then I pull them all the way in with the cord to me and pet them up. If the dog doesn't know what HERE means, say here many times while pulling them in to you with the check cord until you're sure they know what HERE means. Dogs are just animals, and have very little ability to learn by what the right decision is, or what it thinks you want, etc. They learn only from repetition. After many sessions of hearing HERE, and then being pulled in to you and petted up...most any dog will automatically come to you. It's important to start off like this...you're laying the foundation for what HERE means, and they're wearing the electronic collar and getting no stimulation from wearing it. Later, if he's a hard head...he'll be ready to switch from a physical check cord to a mental one and if he tests that mental cord, a quick stimulation with the collar will quickly remind him off all the practice sessions he had before without hi being collar wise. Good luck

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Registered: Jun 2003
Location: North GA
Posts: 14395

You need to break the dog before its to late.... I use Jims method myself but I have a 5yr fiest thats been that way since I got him when he was a year old. Best squirrel and little coon treer I've ever saw. I never broke him. He just runs loose. I can call him from a mile away and he comes running wide open and stops a foot from you and will not let ya catch him. I can pet him about once week is all. He just hates to be touched. I tried the rope trick and treat on him but didnt have a shocker then.. I've taught a few hounds since to come and once they learn it all will take is the tone button. Any of yall think a 5 yr old dog is to old for the shocker ??? Can I break him????

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Registered: Jun 2006
Location: Platteville, Wi
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you want to catch your dog just lay down on the ground and start flopping around while squalling like a coon in distress. he will catch you!! but wear a turtle neck sweater to protect your juggler vein!!! But seriuosly if the pup don't like to ride in the box, this could be why he doesn't want to get caught. catch him in the woods and lead him to the truck.

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Registered: Jan 2007
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Joe & Jim both gave you some very good advice for your pup. I agree with Jim about the rope, I never could keep that thing out of the way. I am a firm believer in Tri Tronics for teaching a dog to come. I have used the same method for teaching them to come to a whistle. The whistle works great when you are behind someones house late at night and you don't want to start hollering for your dog.

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Registered: Nov 2007
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gave you the best advice,,if you cant learn somthing as smiple as this you wount make it as a trainer so listen to jim,

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