UKC Forums - Ford 9n tractor

Show all 13 posts from this thread on one page

UKC Forums (http://forums.ukcdogs.com/index.php)
- Off Topic (http://forums.ukcdogs.com/forumdisplay.php?forumid=53)
-- Ford 9n tractor (http://forums.ukcdogs.com/showthread.php?threadid=928433515)

Posted by john Duemmer on 10-31-2015 01:24 PM:

Ford 9n tractor

I know there must be some experts on here....
Starts cold and purs like a kitten, as it warms up it starts to miss and then quits. Tractor has been switched over to 12 volt, has a good battery and is chargin, new carb, when it quits the carb bowl is full so its not runnin out of gas. Im thinkin maybe coil, any other ideas?

__________________
Everything that makes them a COONDOG is on the inside

Posted by corky crowder on 10-31-2015 02:23 PM:

did you put 12 volt coil on . or put resistor in line .if you didn't do one or other will burn coil

__________________

CB&L KENNELS
HOME OF TREETALKIN
BLACK & TANS
CORKY CROWDER
BRANDON MAYO
LINDA CROWDER
PR TREETALKIN LITTLE SASSY
TREETALKIN TROOPERS BLEW
TREETALKIN RANGER DANGER
TREETALKIN LIL SHOOTEM UP JAKE
GRCHPR TREETALKIN NIGHTHAWK GONE BUT NEVER WILL BE FORGOTTEN R.I.P.

Posted by john Duemmer on 10-31-2015 02:49 PM:

It has a 12 volt coil, my son just bought this tractor a couple weeks ago and the guy did say he had had to replace a couple coils, im wondering if even with a 12 volt coil if it should be knocked down to 9... it has a simple one wire alternator with internal regulator that puts out about 14 which may be burning the coil.

__________________
Everything that makes them a COONDOG is on the inside

Posted by corky crowder on 10-31-2015 03:56 PM:

I DON'T KNOW ABOUT THAT THE OLD 9N I HAD AB RESISTOR IN THE LINE TO COIL AND 6V COIL WORKED FINE. IM NO EXPERT JUST TRIAL AND ERRO

Posted by msinc on 10-31-2015 11:03 PM:

Usually when they do that it is a sign that the valves may need to be adjusted...as the engine runs the valves loose lash {clearance} when it looses enough lash as the engine heats up the valves can float {not close completely} which will cause a miss. Back when everything had solid lifters and adjustable valves it was done as a part of routine maintenance. These days most people don't even know that the valves are adjustable, let alone actually taking the time to adjust them.
They should be done every year. That tractor was made from 1939-1941, so the "youngest" it could be is 74!!!! I doubt the valves in that tractor have been reset 74 times....it could probably stand to have it done even if that aint the problem.
If it's the coil doing it, you can check that easy enough with either another coil to switch out while the engine is still up to temperature or get it hot and remove that coil. Pack it in ice for a few minutes and reinstall while the rest of the engine is hot. See if it purrs again while the coil is cold.
There are several other things that can heat up and cause trouble. Those carburetors were troublesome when they got to be 25-30 years old...this one is double.

Edit: I would also check the ignition resistor...if I remember right the tractor had a separate resistor made like in a ceramic insulator {cant remember the name, been out of it for a while} sometimes when a 12 volt conversion is done a resistor wire is also installed. Heat increases resistance and you may find that the coil ends up not getting enough voltage when everything gets to operating temperature. I would check the coil voltage when you first start it cold and again when it starts to miss.
Another edit: Ballast resistor....it's coming back to me slowly!!!! You can use either/or, but you do not want/need both.

Posted by JustinH23 on 11-04-2015 02:39 PM:

quote:
Originally posted by msinc
Usually when they do that it is a sign that the valves may need to be adjusted...as the engine runs the valves loose lash {clearance} when it looses enough lash as the engine heats up the valves can float {not close completely} which will cause a miss. Back when everything had solid lifters and adjustable valves it was done as a part of routine maintenance. These days most people don't even know that the valves are adjustable, let alone actually taking the time to adjust them.
They should be done every year. That tractor was made from 1939-1941, so the "youngest" it could be is 74!!!! I doubt the valves in that tractor have been reset 74 times....it could probably stand to have it done even if that aint the problem.
If it's the coil doing it, you can check that easy enough with either another coil to switch out while the engine is still up to temperature or get it hot and remove that coil. Pack it in ice for a few minutes and reinstall while the rest of the engine is hot. See if it purrs again while the coil is cold.
There are several other things that can heat up and cause trouble. Those carburetors were troublesome when they got to be 25-30 years old...this one is double.

Edit: I would also check the ignition resistor...if I remember right the tractor had a separate resistor made like in a ceramic insulator {cant remember the name, been out of it for a while} sometimes when a 12 volt conversion is done a resistor wire is also installed. Heat increases resistance and you may find that the coil ends up not getting enough voltage when everything gets to operating temperature. I would check the coil voltage when you first start it cold and again when it starts to miss.
Another edit: Ballast resistor....it's coming back to me slowly!!!! You can use either/or, but you do not want/need both.

What he said! Plus:

Any older tractor, if it hasn't been done recently, rebuild or have someone rebuild that carb. I always soak my carbs in a bucket of carb dip (you can get it at any parts store) for a couple days. Blow them out good with air. The slightest blockage or place that could suck air will affect how the tractor runs.

__________________
Justin Haddon

Proud member of the Deer Creek Cartel

Founding Member of the BSKC. Making coon hunting great again.

Home of:

`PR` B$C Clifford (BoonexCopper)
`PR` Johnson Branch Stub (GitXCree)

Posted by msinc on 11-04-2015 09:10 PM:

Another thing just hit me when I read your post Justin...the original 9N-2N-8N line of tractors had a positive ground system...check to make sure they either reversed to a negative ground and also reversed the coil or not when it was converted to a 12volt system.

Posted by T Greene on 11-05-2015 09:52 PM:

My 8n acted similar to what you're saying. I put a new voltage regulator on it, and it hasn't acted up since.

__________________
Tony Greene

Posted by john Duemmer on 11-05-2015 11:01 PM:

UPDATE

UPDATE... Rebuilt the carb, fresh plugs and wires, new points and condensor.... it doesnt quit anymore but still runs rough under load when warm(brush hog), after 10 minutes or so it will miss some and backfire once in a while. Thinking now maybe the governor needs rebuilt?, if that doesnt work adjusting the valves will be next, for a simple old machine this thing sure is a pain, acts to me like it is out of time but there is no way to adjust that.
Thanks for the tips, any other ideas?

__________________
Everything that makes them a COONDOG is on the inside

Posted by msinc on 11-05-2015 11:20 PM:

Re: UPDATE

quote:
Originally posted by john Duemmer
UPDATE... Rebuilt the carb, fresh plugs and wires, new points and condensor.... it doesnt quit anymore but still runs rough under load when warm(brush hog), after 10 minutes or so it will miss some and backfire once in a while. Thinking now maybe the governor needs rebuilt?, if that doesnt work adjusting the valves will be next, for a simple old machine this thing sure is a pain, acts to me like it is out of time but there is no way to adjust that.
Thanks for the tips, any other ideas?

Given what you have done to it, generally when they start to miss getting warmed up good it is valve adjustment...sounds like a valve is starting to float. The governor cannot make it miss...it just limits {or fails to limit} the rpm.
Just thought of one other thing it might be...in the distributor there is a bushing that the mainshaft rides in...if it is worn {very high probability} that can/will cause a weird intermittent miss because the points will either bounce or have a different dwell {amount of time the points are closed to charge the coil}.
What happens when you put a vacuum gauge on the intake manifold and measure manifold vacuum???? Try it when it is cold and not missing, then be sure you have the vacuum gauge handy when it starts to miss...if the needle goes from steady to dancing around when it misses you have a valve problem. Could be float, could be a weak or messed up valve spring. Usually if it is a spring it will miss all the time.

Not sure those tractors even had a governor.....back firing makes me think of a valve not seating or a carburetor problem that the kit didn't fix. They were troublesome carburetors to begin with and you can believe that doesn't improve with age. I would also try spraying some WD-40 around the carburetor shaft...the shaft wears the body of the carburetor and causes a bad vacuum leak. Should be able to cover that up by choking it if it starts to miss.

Posted by john Duemmer on 11-08-2015 03:05 PM:

Thanks for the help guys, problem solved, turned out to be the (supposed to be)insulated terminal inside the distributor where the points connect to the coil wire. It was leaking to ground, so after it ran a few minutes the coil would stop fireing.

__________________
Everything that makes them a COONDOG is on the inside

Posted by msinc on 11-08-2015 04:58 PM:

Glad to hear you got her fixed Mr. Duemmer

Posted by Claude Coville on 11-16-2015 11:12 PM:

PUT LEAD ADDITIVE IN YOUR GAS SO VALVES

CAN OPEN AND CLOSE PROPERLY JUST LIKE WE HAVE TO DO WITH OLD BOAT MOTORS HOPE THIS CAN HELP

__________________
THE BEST TO YOU AND YOURS FROM ME AND MINE

All times are GMT. The time now is 11:16 AM.

Show all 13 posts from this thread on one page