UKC Forums (http://forums.ukcdogs.com/index.php)
- UKC Coonhounds (http://forums.ukcdogs.com/forumdisplay.php?forumid=4)
-- Can a dog be injured pulling on lead. (http://forums.ukcdogs.com/showthread.php?threadid=928526967)

Can a dog be injured pulling on lead.

Howdy fella's I have a coming on 6 month old walker pup I've been doing yard work with. My main thing lately is trying to get him walking good on the lead and not pulling. I have seen folks snap up their dog's neck or maybe whoop on 'em when there pulling. Seem's like it works for some and not others. Well in my efforts I have jerked my pup back behind me when he starts pulling it seems to discourage him from pulling at least a little bit. Has anyone had a negative experience with this? I have recently read that doing this can potentially hurt a dog's vocal chords, thyroid or worse. I looked it up bc I noticed a change in his voice but I suppose that could just be because he is a pup. Alright any informative advice will be helpful, thanks.

Yes you can hurt a pup or even a dog for that matter, Just use common sense and if you think its too much then it proubally is , best of luck , patience patience

Thank you

I am gonna try a different method. I am definitely not gonna yank on him the way I was. I am hoping his change in voice is just because he is a pup.

Tie out

I start mine on a tie out for an hour or two a day. This helps them learn there is an end to the chain. Clams em down. Than move em to staying on it overnight and all day. Than walk em on a lead with a wack em collar. Turn it down it won't take much. When they hit the end off the lead tune and pull em back to ya slowly not to hurt or scare em. Than as walk goes on I will lighty zap em than tone em and pull em back. Before long they understand they are in trouble if they hit the end of the lead. Than I begin to strat the lead until they are walking next to me. Always toning em and using voice command. That way before long no lead just vocie command. And if they are to far tone and voice command. This if done correctly will break a dog to be tone broke as your breaking it to lead. If only doing it little bit a day it'll take a couple weeks or so. Faster results take more time walking the dog. Remember you don't wack or get on the dog to hard. You never want the dog scared or discouraged. When it's walking good talk nicely to it and always pet it so every do often. Another good idea is after going good every so often grab its tail and pull followed by petting and talking nicely. This way if it's ever in a hole or pile and you have to pull on its tail it knows not to turn around and attack ya. Little steps to make a more enjoyable hunting buddy.

Thanks!

Give me a call. I can walk you through a 15 min exercise that will correct 95% of dogs for pulling without having to whoop or snap them.

__________________
<BIGTIME KENNELS>
MARSHALL AYERS:
828-280-6769
DUAL GRAND GRNITECH'GRCH'PR'NITRO'S BIGTIME GOMER
http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x374/bigtimekennels/th_null_zpsaf6e7c86.png

When I walk mine it is to get loaded up...they see that as a big positive...so when they pull ahead I give a jerk and pull them back to my side... I make sure I am not moving forward during this correction...I wait 10 or 15 seconds before I move forward again and keep a fairly tight leash on the pup...if the pup moves ahead I will correct and make sure I stop forward progress...I step out again after a good pause and make sure he is beside me...I pet him up for walking next to me without a tight leash...they learn quick that getting down the trail or to the dog box is more fun so they learn to walk without tension on the leash if they want to make forward progress...consistency and firmness will work in your favor...

Before moving forward the pup needs to be calm with no tension on leash and when you step forward correct immediately and if and as soon as he walks next to you without pulling on leash pet him up...

There are two things that could’ve happening...one is if he thinks he can get away with it and he will...

Two...you need him to know this is what you want and then it needs to be clear to him as to what you want and then it will be easy...doing the right things at the right time so he can understand what you want...

__________________
Training dogs is not so much about quantity, it's more about timing, and the right situations...After that it's up to the dog....A hunting dog is born...

When I walk mine it is to get loaded up...they see that as a big positive...so when they pull ahead I give a jerk and pull them back to my side... I make sure I am not moving forward during this correction...I wait 10 or 15 seconds before I move forward again and keep a fairly tight leash on the pup...if the pup moves ahead I will correct and make sure I stop forward progress...I step out again after a good pause and make sure he is beside me...I pet him up for walking next to me without a tight leash...they learn quick that getting down the trail or to the dog box is more fun so they learn to walk without tension on the leash if they want to make forward progress...consistency and firmness will work in your favor...

Before moving forward the pup needs to be calm with no tension on leash and when you step forward correct immediately and if and as soon as he walks next to you without pulling on leash pet him up...

There are two things that could’ve happening...one is if he thinks he can get away with it and he will...

Two...you need him to know this is what you want and then it needs to be clear to him as to what you want and then it will be easy...doing the right things at the right time so he can understand what you want...

__________________
Training dogs is not so much about quantity, it's more about timing, and the right situations...After that it's up to the dog....A hunting dog is born...

I'll take a switch that will reach a little past the tip of their nose and "encourage" them to walk at my heel instead of dragging me around. I'd rather hurt their feelings than their neck. Or my shoulder...

I use the suitcase method. It teaches them quick to not pull. And never seen it not work. Run the lead down the back, right in front of the waist wrap it around the belly and back up in front the portion running down the back . Or you can look up for better instructions. But anyway when the lead comes tight it squeezes the dogs waist. And the first few times it happens they will freak out because they're uncomfortable. Once they learn what is causing the pain they stop pulling. I've used several different methods in the past but the suitcase it the easiest one. Bird dog people use this method to teach whoa on a stake.

Another thing you can use is a pinch collar. You can pick those up at Tractor Supply or most pet stores.

__________________
Eric DePue
Hill Country Kennels Itty-Bitty
PKC CH Wax's Late Night Boom
And
Partners on a few common trashy young dogs

Gone but not forgotten

GrNtCh, PKC Ch Hillbilly Bildo
Pr Broken Oaks Wild Blue Gypsy

quote:

---

Originally posted by novicane65
I use the suitcase method. It teaches them quick to not pull. And never seen it not work. Run the lead down the back, right in front of the waist wrap it around the belly and back up in front the portion running down the back . Or you can look up for better instructions. But anyway when the lead comes tight it squeezes the dogs waist. And the first few times it happens they will freak out because they're uncomfortable. Once they learn what is causing the pain they stop pulling. I've used several different methods in the past but the suitcase it the easiest one. Bird dog people use this method to teach whoa on a stake.

Another thing you can use is a pinch collar. You can pick those up at Tractor Supply or most pet stores.

---

__________________
Training dogs is not so much about quantity, it's more about timing, and the right situations...After that it's up to the dog....A hunting dog is born...

Throw a half hitch on them using a leather, rope or nylon lead placing it such that the lead strap is tight in behind the shoulders. DO NOT USE A CHAIN LEAD FOR THIS!

The dog will quickly learn when they pull it is uncomfortable as the lead strap tightens around their chest. Do not do this behind the rib cage or in front of the hips as it could damage internal organs.

When they begin to pull apply a little more pressure and tell them to heel and stop forward movement for a few seconds. Works for me and has for years.

__________________
Dan

.

Get yourself a Herm Sprenger Prong Collar. Amazing what they can do. I will say this. I feel it may be more important with those collars than a training collar for the Owner to know what they are doing. It is real simple with almost immediate results. But read about the collar, proper sizing, proper use.

Here is something most people miss about these collars. They are really effective, not because of any pain the inflect if used wrong or aggressively. They are an extension of just what the mother taught the pup. Watch any mother dog around pups an if they get frustrated with one. They gently put the pups neck in their mouth and exert some pressure. You are just training with this collar in a way is the extension of what the mother taught them.

__________________
www.ConkeysOutdoors.com
"Boss Lights"

Re: .

quote:

---

Originally posted by Bruce m. Conkey
Get yourself a Herm Sprenger Prong Collar. Amazing what they can do. I will say this. I feel it may be more important with those collars than a training collar for the Owner to know what they are doing. It is real simple with almost immediate results. But read about the collar, proper sizing, proper use.

Here is something most people miss about these collars. They are really effective, not because of any pain the inflect if used wrong or aggressively. They are an extension of just what the mother taught the pup. Watch any mother dog around pups an if they get frustrated with one. They gently put the pups neck in their mouth and exert some pressure. You are just training with this collar in a way is the extension of what the mother taught them.

---

__________________
Ignorance: the lack of knowledge, education, etc.
Stupidity: lacking normal intelligence.
Intelligence: the ability to learn or understand.
You can't fix STUPID!

Re: Re: .

quote:

---

Originally posted by Bob Hennessey
X2
They work when used properly.

---

__________________
Training dogs is not so much about quantity, it's more about timing, and the right situations...After that it's up to the dog....A hunting dog is born...

Get a Smiths Wonder Lead ! best $20 You will spend.

Thanks everyone!