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Posted by joey on 09-27-2015 09:53 PM:

Dog house/kennel?

I am building a new kennel and the dog houses are a hold up. I want the best I can get for out the back of the kennel.

This is what I was thinking. The kennel is on a slab and will have 2 foot block walls between the separate pens and across the back. I have built several kennels and I have always said I was going to do this. It keeps me from washing water from one kennel to another when cleaning and the male dogs from urinating through the fence into the other dogs pen.

I am thinking of just using the blocks to build dog houses out the back of each kennel. After all of the block and concrete is done I will paint everything inside and out with epoxy paint to seal everything. I'm thinking this will be a good idea but someone might have tried it and had a different experience then what I am hoping for. So I am putting it out there for other thoughts?

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Posted by moonshine man on 09-27-2015 10:36 PM:

Kennel

To tell you the truth if i ever build another kennel on a slab im going to put block 3 or 4 block high between the runs for the things you said plus it keeps the dogs from growling at each other at feed time and if you have a dog thats strange to them it keeps them calm.
I caint help you on the block houses never had them but a friend of mine built his out of block over chewing problems and he said he liked his and wished he had done it sooner.

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Posted by msinc on 09-27-2015 10:46 PM:

Mr. Rosamond, suggest you don't forget to etch the block you want to paint first. If you have a Benjamin Moore paint store nearby the best I have used is their garage floor paint. Just don't throw the chips in it...they have the etch too. I have tried a lot of different etch products and the one I got there works the best. It is a real important step to get the paint to stay.
Also, as you know the block must be painted or the urine will eventually saturate it and you will have trouble getting the smell out.
Pour a slab for each house and lay the block for the houses but I also suggest you build the roof sections on a hinge with a prop rod. In the winter it is real important to keep plenty of straw or bedding in the houses. In the summer the dogs appreciate the nice cool concrete block.
I am real tempted to go ahead and epoxy paint the floors of my kennel to help keep them cleaner and unsaturated even though I have a metal roof over the whole works. I would also suggest you build one of the houses big enough to serve as a whelping box.

Edit: That etch is Insl-X Corotech High Performance Concrete Etch and it is sold by the gallon. It is a concentrate and you just mix it and spray it on with a hand pump type spray bottle. It does not require a rinse, just coat everything and let it dry a few hours and paint. You can of course parge everything and not paint it, but a buddy tried that and it still saturated...it just delayed the inevitable.


Posted by Lovis Burns on 09-28-2015 01:07 AM:

Contant Kyle Evans at Evans Custom Dog Boxes. I purchased 12 of these back in February and I love them. They are light weight and durable and reasonably priced.

http://www.evanscustomdogboxes.com/

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Posted by joey on 09-28-2015 01:20 AM:

quote:
Originally posted by msinc
Mr. Rosamond, suggest you don't forget to etch the block you want to paint first. If you have a Benjamin Moore paint store nearby the best I have used is their garage floor paint. Just don't throw the chips in it...they have the etch too. I have tried a lot of different etch products and the one I got there works the best. It is a real important step to get the paint to stay.
Also, as you know the block must be painted or the urine will eventually saturate it and you will have trouble getting the smell out.
Pour a slab for each house and lay the block for the houses but I also suggest you build the roof sections on a hinge with a prop rod. In the winter it is real important to keep plenty of straw or bedding in the houses. In the summer the dogs appreciate the nice cool concrete block.
I am real tempted to go ahead and epoxy paint the floors of my kennel to help keep them cleaner and unsaturated even though I have a metal roof over the whole works. I would also suggest you build one of the houses big enough to serve as a whelping box.

Edit: That etch is Insl-X Corotech High Performance Concrete Etch and it is sold by the gallon. It is a concentrate and you just mix it and spray it on with a hand pump type spray bottle. It does not require a rinse, just coat everything and let it dry a few hours and paint. You can of course parge everything and not paint it, but a buddy tried that and it still saturated...it just delayed the inevitable.



I was planning on doing everything you suggested except I dint know about the etching. Thanks that kind stuff is what the thread was about. I'm kind of set on the block housing for the insulation plus it matching the rest of the kennel. Unless I can find a draw back to it I'm not thinking about.

__________________
Michael Rosamond
Sunspot Lights
936-827-6309
http://www.sunspotlights.com/
When brightness matters!!

Home Of:
PKC Ch, Grch Grnch 2008 Tx state champion They call me Crazy Betty

PKC SCh CH Grnch They call me Howler too


Posted by msinc on 09-28-2015 01:31 AM:

If there is a drawback to the kennel you are describing I sure don't know what it would be. I think when you are done you will be as happy with that kennel as all of us are with our Sunfire HD!!!!! Post some photos when you get going on this thing.


Posted by POTOMAC on 09-28-2015 12:33 PM:

If you do use epoxy sealer which I'm sure you will and need to but be sure to mix plenty of sand in with the epoxy on the floor !!! If not when it gets wet it will be slick as an ice rink !!!!! Also I think I would fill the block part your using for the houses with some kind of foam insulation !!! Unless you were using solid block ! Sounds like a one time last for ever kennel !! Post some pics if and when you complete it !!


Posted by Erick Veenhuis on 09-28-2015 01:40 PM:

If you are going to use epoxy make sure you do your home work on the epoxy used. If its going to be exposed to lots of sunlight the UV rays could potentially start to break down the epoxy and cause flaking. I highly recommend using silica sand as well. Once the epoxy has been laid heavily spread sand on top on the wet epoxy then vacuum off after cure. I would give the epoxy a few days to reach its full cure as well. Be aware of the data sheets and the pot life (wet work time) of the material.

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Posted by joey on 09-28-2015 01:53 PM:

I was just going to fill the block cells with concrete for stability and insulation. I'll be sure and look into the sand. It will have a roof over it but will be sprayed out daily so they will need the traction. Thanks

__________________
Michael Rosamond
Sunspot Lights
936-827-6309
http://www.sunspotlights.com/
When brightness matters!!

Home Of:
PKC Ch, Grch Grnch 2008 Tx state champion They call me Crazy Betty

PKC SCh CH Grnch They call me Howler too


Posted by msinc on 09-28-2015 02:00 PM:

There is a no slip product called "Shark Grip" that most paint stores sell. It's cheap, a few dollars a bottle and it works real good. You mix it with the paint so it is in not on the surface.
Personally, with my kennel I didn't worry about it or use it...I just didn't polish the cement so smooth that it would be an issue. The vet I use suggested that I actually rough the floor up some. He said it is not good to have dogs on a really smooth flat surface. I think a lightly broomed and painted surface is about ideal, with no need for non slip treatment.
One thing on the dog houses...with the exception of the whelping box they should be only big enough that the dog can get in...but small enough that his own body heat warms it up.


Posted by joey on 09-28-2015 02:12 PM:

quote:
Originally posted by msinc
There is a no slip product called "Shark Grip" that most paint stores sell. It's cheap, a few dollars a bottle and it works real good. You mix it with the paint so it is in not on the surface.
Personally, with my kennel I didn't worry about it or use it...I just didn't polish the cement so smooth that it would be an issue. The vet I use suggested that I actually rough the floor up some. He said it is not good to have dogs on a really smooth flat surface. I think a lightly broomed and painted surface is about ideal, with no need for non slip treatment.
One thing on the dog houses...with the exception of the whelping box they should be only big enough that the dog can get in...but small enough that his own body heat warms it up.



I will look into that product. The sizing of the dog houses is something I will have to think about. They are definitely going to be permanent so I will have to size them as if I was going to be housing a bigger dog. We do not have that harsh of winters here. I used to raise pups a lot but I just raised my first litter in several years and don't plan on doing it again for a while. I'm going to make one of the pens twice the size as the others for that, but I think I will make the dog house for it normal size. Then bring a whelping box in and out as needed.

__________________
Michael Rosamond
Sunspot Lights
936-827-6309
http://www.sunspotlights.com/
When brightness matters!!

Home Of:
PKC Ch, Grch Grnch 2008 Tx state champion They call me Crazy Betty

PKC SCh CH Grnch They call me Howler too


Posted by msinc on 09-28-2015 02:18 PM:

Yeah, I think if you don't have a lot of days below freezing it wont really matter...I also think that it is pretty much impossible to hurt a dog by exposure to the elements. As long as they are dry and out of the wind they are pretty much comfortable. I have had mine out sleeping on the cold hard concrete when it was in the low 20's. I thought they were surely dead, but they got up and were ready to go when I went to check on them!!!


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