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Pup training tips and techniques

I've searched the threads and found bits of information here and there but decided to start a thread on how and when everyone starts and trains a pup. I'm sure there is going to be many different ideas and concepts but that's what this is for. I've had many hounds but never started a pup so everyone out there that has knows more than I do and I'm here to learn. Thanks in advance.

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When a pup is two to three months old, I start the initial training. Teaching the pup his name. Teaching him not to be scared of loud noises that I make on purpose around them.
I also get the pup use to the truck at this age. Putting them in it and taking them for short rides. I have one now that is 3 1/2 months old and have carried him to the woods twice just for the ride and to let him run around while I was scouting a few areas. I have been lucky and there is no bad habits in the box, such as barking. If there was then its a good time to start working on it. The beauty of pups is the less nonsense they have about them the easier your job is. Just being a buddy for some pups and giving it a chance is all the training they need.
Here is a video of me in the afternoon playing/teaching the pup his name and to come. I do this several times a week. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwRqgrL_ZQk

Here is the frustration with pups and where you have to sharpen your pencil. Depending on what day of the week it is. I let them out to run and play on 4 acres fenced ground. I go out there in the evening and put them in their pens for the night. Just this past couple days both the walker pup and red pups have figured out what I am doing and don't want to go in their pens. They actually started running from me. That is when the foundation you laid with them knowing to come pays off. You just have to start getting a little stern with them once or twice when they don't listen and that bump in the road with go away.

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www.ConkeysOutdoors.com
"Boss Lights"

a fair amount of the time for someone new to training it can be about not making mistakes that can mess up a pup or really set it back. examples may be.
letting it see a drag or cage coon to much
forcing it to do things it's not ready for
not having it tied back when ya shoot that first coon out
hunting with the wrong dogs
not using the e-collar correctly

them are just a few things I can think of off the top of my head.

I always take a pup to the woods just to let them run as much as possible. I believe they learn more just running around exploring at a young age then I could ever teach them.

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Pete Rhines

I always take a pup to the woods just to let them run as much as possible. I believe they learn more just running around exploring at a young age then I could ever teach them.

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Pete Rhines

Do all the ground work at home that Bruce has mentioned, but after that, this would be my best advice. The less amount of "training" you do, probably the better the pup will be. I think more dogs have been set back by us "training" them than have ever benefited. Just give them the opportunity by getting them in the woods, and let what they have been bred to do come out. If the natural instinct is there, it will come out. When we start rushing it, or trying to make it happen, there is a good chance we will set them back or ruin them. Once they are going good we can always tweek them or work on things to our liking, but even then be careful. Good luck to you and just enjoy yourself.

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J. Bradford

Like Mr Bradford said, load them up, take them to the woods and turn them loose. The less "training" you do the better. You can't ruin a pup by doing nothing. You ruin them by doing too much "training".

Years ago I trained pups and one day I realized it isn't about training...it is about selecting pups that are naturals when breeding and creating the right situations for the right responses from the pups...

Example...feed the pups and turn them out of their kennel to play and explore...when it is time to put them up they will not come to the kennel...your commands won't work...you will have to catch them...they will learn that they can out run you and that they don't need to come when called...quite a bit of negative training by accident...yes, with persistence it will eventually work...

Example #2...step out the back door and walk up to kennel and give a little attention to pups...open gate and hiss pups to hunt...ignore pups and go back to the house and watch pups through window and watch them and learn...once the pups are about tired or give them 30 minutes of play, grab the feed bowl and walk towns the kennel and call pups like you would call them out of the woods and they will come running...give hand signal and give kennel command as they come running to be fed...pet them up good and session is complete for the morning...I use somewhat of the same method for breaking pups to gunfire at 7-10 weeks..also I observe pups in hopes of identifying a potential special pup or pups in the litter that are naturally inclined for winding and locating etc...training in this way it is fun for the pups as well as for myself...

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Training dogs is not so much about quantity, it's more about timing, and the right situations...After that it's up to the dog....A hunting dog is born...

The next step isn't really training just creating situations for the pups to wind and find...and for me it gives me the chance in identifying the pups with the natural inclination to wind and find at 7 thru 10 weeks or so...I cut up beef liver in small pieces and give each pup a piece before mealtime...after about the third day of this the pups will look forward to the treats...
The next day I let the pups get a whiff of the liver or pieces of fried chicken and then I go upwind and scatter the treats in the grass...I look for the pups who naturally put their nose up to the wind...I then open the gate and send them out and I observe which pups cast and locate the most...some will need a little help but they catch on pretty quick...I then feed them when I call them to kennel...always consistency calling to kennel...using hunger or their eagerness to explore to my advantage...

Next step is to open back door and step out right before time to put up pups and call them to me...and I pet em up good and give them all a treat or two...this I do as preconditioning prior to gunfire exposure...

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Training dogs is not so much about quantity, it's more about timing, and the right situations...After that it's up to the dog....A hunting dog is born...

Once the pups come running when called it is time for the next step...right before feeding time...I step out with my 22 revolver with blanks and treats in my pocket...call pups to me and as they run towards me I fire a cap and watch their reactions and keep calling...I pet em up good and make sure none have shied away...and then give each a treat...repeat next day with 2 shots or more depending on how they act..by the 4th or 5th time I shoot 2 or 3 at waste level and they can definetely smell the gun powder...repeat in a month or so...one of the most important steps here is to get their minds off of gunfire asap...stop if the pups are shying away...and distract their attention from it...

I also like to identify which pups will roll out at 3 to 4 months...this usually tells me of things to come from those that do...

I break them off of deer in their kennels before 6 or 7 months and also off of cows around that time...I keep it simple and easy...and it is a pleasure watching and observing the pups as they progress...
I am not a competition hunter...so, if I have to feed a lot of tracks to make a dog I will not keep it...

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Training dogs is not so much about quantity, it's more about timing, and the right situations...After that it's up to the dog....A hunting dog is born...