UKC Forums - Coon Feeders, Dog Kennels, Houses, Den Boxes... Got Pics? Share Yours!

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Posted by Tx Dave on 03-27-2017 08:53 AM:

Concrete

Jordan i have kept my dogs on concrete for several years now. My concrete is not smooth or slick, it it also is not what i would call rough. I guess you could say its between smooth and rough if that makes any sense. I have never had a problem with my dogs feet flattening out, this is actually the first that i have ever heard of that. As far as trimming the toenails i have never had to on any of my dogs that live on concrete. The concrete keeps their nails trimmed. My house dogs are the only ones that i have to trim their nails. Im not trying to be negative by any means, but i believe you have received some false information on it to be honest. I would not trade my concrete kennels for anything in the world. Super easy clean up daily( mine wash out into a trough at the rear of each kennel and go into septic system). I bleach the kennels once a week and knock on wood i have very little problems with sick dogs. The only draw back i have found is once the dogs get older it seems the concrete is harder on them. I have large horse trailer mats that i use in the older dogs kennels and that seems to help a lot.

Posted by gcblues on 03-29-2017 02:29 AM:

Feeder

Jordan hello is the down pipe on the feeder made of steel ?

Posted by JORDAN LINGLE on 03-31-2017 03:33 AM:

Re: Concrete

quote:
Originally posted by Tx Dave
Jordan i have kept my dogs on concrete for several years now. My concrete is not smooth or slick, it it also is not what i would call rough. I guess you could say its between smooth and rough if that makes any sense. I have never had a problem with my dogs feet flattening out, this is actually the first that i have ever heard of that. As far as trimming the toenails i have never had to on any of my dogs that live on concrete. The concrete keeps their nails trimmed. My house dogs are the only ones that i have to trim their nails. Im not trying to be negative by any means, but i believe you have received some false information on it to be honest. I would not trade my concrete kennels for anything in the world. Super easy clean up daily( mine wash out into a trough at the rear of each kennel and go into septic system). I bleach the kennels once a week and knock on wood i have very little problems with sick dogs. The only draw back i have found is once the dogs get older it seems the concrete is harder on them. I have large horse trailer mats that i use in the older dogs kennels and that seems to help a lot.

Hey Dave, thanks for your input. I'm glad you shared that actually, I certainly wouldn't want to deter anyone from wanting to use concrete in their kennel just because I weren't going to. That was not my intentions at all. To be perfectly honest I have absolutely no personal experience whatsoever with kenneling my own dogs on concrete. My information was based solely off the opinions and experience of two Kennel owners/operators I've spoke to. Both men had trained dogs for a living and had been around dogs practically all of their lives. One is trainer of Labrador Retriever's and the other English Pointer's. I questioned them both about their Kennel's and asked them what they liked and disliked about their current Kennel setup and what if anything would they change if they had it to do all over again. I got some very different and interesting but good suggestions and recommendations from both men. So I was very surprised when both of them told me that concrete in their kennels was no longer their first choice for flooring because of the effects it had on the dogs feet. I was even more surprised that they both had suggested rock as being their first alternative. All of that being said I'm still not saying that concrete doesn't have its own benefits and advantages over other kennel flooring and I certainly wouldn't go as far as to suggest that one is better than another either. It is all really just matter of opinion and what works best for the user. The problems they experienced with a dogs feet and concrete kennels may not have been just the concrete itself but rather a cumulation of other problems, possibly even genetics? I honestly don't know. Like you Dave I have never heard of these issues of using concrete causing any problems with a coonhounds feet before myself. Maybe a Coonhounds feet, genetics and structure are better suited for the hard surface? I will admit though after hearing about the problems associated with the concrete the whole idea did seem to make sense to me and I sort of just took them at their word. I do know how my feet and back feel after standing and walking on concrete all day, not good. :/ I just want whatever is best for my hounds. Cost and all other things considered I figured I would try something else. I can always go back and add concrete later if I change my mind but taking it all back up, now that might not be so easy. lol

I'm very glad to hear that your dogs healthy and happy and that the concrete kennels floor have worked for you and your dogs. Judging by your description your kennels sound like they are very nice! Do have any pictures you could share? I would love to see them.

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Posted by JORDAN LINGLE on 03-31-2017 04:19 AM:

This Weeks Projects!

I made five of these feeder/water tables over the weekend. They are great for keeping the feed pan from becoming a LOST PLAY TOY! lol They also help keep the pan off the ground out of the mud and away from insects. The water bucket is also raised and acts as a heavy anchor keeping the wide platform stable preventing the dogs from easily tipping it over. I used treated 2x4's and treated plywood, glued and screwed it with exterior glue and pressure treated rated screws. Quick and easy project that really saves a lot of time and aggravation, plus it looks a little nicer I think.

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Posted by JORDAN LINGLE on 03-31-2017 05:07 AM:

Here is few pics of a dog house that bought.

After all the time and expense I spent building my other houses I decided rather than build more I would just buy some. This house is made from insulated fiberglass panels. Should you be able to get your hands on some you could easily reproduced a similar house yourself. These panels are actually cutouts of a fiberglass French door like would go in your house. The fiberglass itself 100% waterproof and the insulated core is solid foam. They are trimmed in a very light aluminum flashing material. The sides are all one piece but the top and bottom are pieced together using screws and overlapping joints that run downhill to prevent rain or water from running in. I was told they are sealed with a caulk or silicone of some kind but I'm not positive. I like the size of these boxes, they come available in two sizes with two different size door options. I got several smaller ones and one larger one which is pictured here. This house is 36"x36" a good size for a whelping box. I also opted for the smaller door openings to help retain more heat. All in all I really like these houses, especially for the money.

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Posted by JORDAN LINGLE on 03-31-2017 06:04 AM:

Whelping Box Puppy Rail

Here is pic of a puppy rail that I made today. Many of you have probably seen or heard of it before and some of you might even have one. In my opinion a puppy rail is a must have if you ever plan to whelp pups. The problem is often times at some point through the birthing process or there after the mother may accidentally lay, sit or squeeze a pup up against the sides of the dog house smothering and killing the pup. Unfortunately I've had the misfortune of experiencing this first hand and know it to be truth. If having a puppy rail saves just one pup then it's worth it and has paid for itself many times over.

This is about as simple of design as you can get and anyone with a hacksaw can do it. I used 2" PVC pipe, four 90's and four tee's and some PVC glue(optional). If I done it over again I would have went with 3" PVC simply because it's larger and keeps mom a little further off of the pups. The whole thing costed a mere $30 bucks for the 2" and probably not more than $40 should you decide to go with 3" instead, which I would highly recommend. One other option is to use the 2" pipe and build the rail smaller than the box. If you do go this route be sure to anchor the rail in place otherwise it's pointless. One note I would make in the construction of the rail is to make sure the rails are high enough that a pup can fit under it without it being so high that mom can too. A good way to figure this is to measure to near the center of the females back with her laying on her side. In general somewhere around 4" or 5" clearance under the rail should be fine. Hope this helps, good luck.

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Posted by btg on 04-01-2017 06:31 PM:

WOW

Jordan is the coolest guy I never met! If you happen to get down to Alabama I have several unfinished projects for you to work on.

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Posted by Wdb91 on 04-01-2017 07:40 PM:

Jordan your water/food bowl table is genius..I will be building me one this afternoon or tomorrow...you build some great looking stuff.nice craftsmanship!!!!!

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Posted by rmcmillan on 04-03-2017 12:14 PM:

A LOT OF GOOD IDEAS ON HERE. HOPE TO SEE MORE. NOW IF I CAN REPRODUCE SOME OF THE IDEAS.

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Posted by rmcmillan on 04-06-2017 12:19 PM:

TOP

Posted by JORDAN LINGLE on 04-08-2017 12:36 AM:

Re: Feeder

quote:
Originally posted by gcblues
Jordan hello is the down pipe on the feeder made of steel ?

No Sir the 3" down pipe is PVC. It's much cheaper, lighter, easier to use and won't rust. My experience the critters won't chew on this part anyway and even if they do its pretty thick. I did use metal pipe for the two outlets where the food is actually dispensed from just for that reason though. As far as attaching the gravity feed pipe goes I used a 3" electrical PVC T/A (threaded adapter) to connect the pipe to the barrel. The T/A fits the 3" pipe just like a coupling would. One end you just need to glue it and slide it on. On the other end you will thave a threaded FEMALE end, hence the word "threaded adapter". I used a 3" metal rigid chase nipple to thread into the other end of the T/A. Once you mark and drill your hole using a hole saw, place the 3" nipple on the inside of barrel and thread it into the the T/A and tighten. You can achieve the same thing by using a simple 3" PVC electrical connector but the threads will protrude up above the bottom of the barrel about an inch which will leave at least that much feed inside. The T/A however will be flush with the bottom of the barrel allowing virtually all the feed to be to be dispersed. The other advantage to T/A over a connector is the strength, with a T/A you have probably fifteen to twenty threads holding it. Where as on a connector fitting you only have about three or four threads grabbing with your 1/4" thick lock ring. The two pipes you see protruding out the sides at the bottom is where the feed is dispensed from, this is METAL. This pipe without a doubt should absolutely be metal because as we all know every critter in the woods will try to chew on it if your feeder ever goes empty. There are many ways to attach this pipe to the PVC but the simplest way I found was to use one solid piece straight through the PVC. I used 1" EMT for this and notched the bottom in the center to allow the feed to flow through it. I cut two 1" holes in the PVC pipe, slid it through and tack welded it from the inside to keep it from going either direction. I done the same on the outside. At the bottom of the 3" PVC I used a standard end cap. I drilled a small hole in the bottom of it for drainage should any water somehow get in to the barrel. Although if your using a good barrel with a good seal water should not be an issue but this is just an extra precaution.

Good luck with yours and be sure to post pictures once it's all done.

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Posted by JORDAN LINGLE on 04-08-2017 12:44 AM:

quote:
Originally posted by btg
Jordan is the coolest guy I never met! If you happen to get down to Alabama I have several unfinished projects for you to work on.

quote:
Originally posted by Wdb91
Jordan your water/food bowl table is genius..I will be building me one this afternoon or tomorrow...you build some great looking stuff.nice craftsmanship!!!!!

quote:
Originally posted by rmcmillan
A LOT OF GOOD IDEAS ON HERE. HOPE TO SEE MORE. NOW IF I CAN REPRODUCE SOME OF THE IDEAS.

Thanks guys! I'll be glad to assist you guys or anyone else in any way possible. I'd love to see any pictures you may have of your own projects once there done. Good luck, good hunting and keep on DIY.

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Posted by rmcmillan on 04-08-2017 03:19 PM:

I REALLY ENJOY EVERYTHING ON HERE, SURE HOPE TO SEE MORE. KENNEL IDEAS ESPECIALLY. MIGHT BE SOMETHING WE ALL WOULD WANT TO INCORPORATE INTO OUR OWN.

I ALSO DO A LITTLE WATERFOWL HUNTING AND HAVE BEEN THINKING OF MAKING MY OWN DECOYS, IF AND WHEN I GET TO IT I WILL POST. WELL THAT IS IF THEY LOOK LIKE A REAL DUCK AND NOT DAFFY. LOL.

Posted by rmcmillan on 04-11-2017 12:10 PM:

TOP

Posted by joey.f on 04-12-2017 01:19 AM:

Jordan were did buy the dog boxs at ? I have been looking for some

Thanks

Posted by JORDAN LINGLE on 04-14-2017 03:07 AM:

quote:
Originally posted by rmcmillan
I REALLY ENJOY EVERYTHING ON HERE, SURE HOPE TO SEE MORE. KENNEL IDEAS ESPECIALLY. MIGHT BE SOMETHING WE ALL WOULD WANT TO INCORPORATE INTO OUR OWN.

I ALSO DO A LITTLE WATERFOWL HUNTING AND HAVE BEEN THINKING OF MAKING MY OWN DECOYS, IF AND WHEN I GET TO IT I WILL POST. WELL THAT IS IF THEY LOOK LIKE A REAL DUCK AND NOT DAFFY. LOL.

That sounds like neat project rmcmillan. I would love to see them when there done. I too enjoy waterfowl hunting. I made a duck box for the ducks to nest and lay eggs in on our pond. It was interesting and fun project. I got the plans off Ducks Unlimited website. There was a lot of good and useful information on there. Including everything from a detailed blue print of how to build the box down to where to put it, how to keep predators out, the benefits of building a nesting box, maintenance and upkeep as well as just some other basic information and facts.

Here is a Link:
http://www.ducks.org/media/Conserva...k_box_plans.pdf

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980 892 1632

Posted by JORDAN LINGLE on 04-14-2017 03:22 AM:

quote:
Originally posted by joey.f
Jordan were did buy the dog boxs at ? I have been looking for some

Thanks

Hey Joey, the name is All Srasons Insulated Pet Houses. They did have a website but it looks like the site is down now? www.allseasonspethouses.com The owner is Greg Nolley he is super nice guy and was easy to deal with. He answered all my question and sent me some pictures when I asked. I had mine delivered to SETWA Days in Union, SC. this year. I think he travels and delivers houses to most of the bigger hunts but I would call first and find out before hand just to be sure. I called him and told him the size house and size door combination I wanted and how many before he loaded up so I was I sure to get exactly what I wanted. He had no problem doing this and held them for me until I got there on Saturday.

Here is his information give him a call I'm sure he'll be glad to help.

Greg Nolley 2905 New Lebanon Rd. Campbellsville, KY 42718 Toll Free 1-888-882-7808

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Posted by rmcmillan on 04-19-2017 12:27 PM:

BTT

Posted by rmcmillan on 04-20-2017 12:22 PM:

GUYS THIS IS THE PROCESS THAT I WILL BE USING TO MAKE MY DECOYS. I COPIED THIS FROM ANOTHER FORUM. NOT MY PLAN SOMEONE ELSES. I WILL TRY AND COPY A PIC OR TWO FROM IT. I HAVE NOT STARTED MINE AT THIS TIME. I DO KNOW YOU CAN PURCHASE THE HEADS ALREADY CARVED FROM FOWL FOOLERS AND I MAY GO THAT ROUTE AT FIRST, THEN MOVE INTO CARVING MY OWN. WISH ME LUCK.

As you all know, I have taken to the foamer decoys heavily in the last couple years. After making and using corks, I have found that foamers can be challenging, but easier overall and certainly less expensive to make. They are durable, ride the water realistically and offer anyone the satisfaction of taking ducks over their own creations.

I have put together a step-by-step process that I have found to be relatively easy and at the same time efficient in making a decoy. This is MY way only....and there may be lot's of other steps or ways to go about making a foamer. I always look to be more creative or to hear what others are doing/suggesting/brainstorming!

Here goes:

Here are the basic tools, along with some secondary tools. The primary tools I use are: a keyhole saw, a surform rasp and drywall screen which I mount on a piece of 2"x4" wrapped in carpet. Other tools I find handy are sandpaper, a sandpapersponge, a hacksaw blade, files and of course a sharpie pen.

I buy my 'stock' foam sheets in 2" thickness...they are 2'x8' and cost about $12 at HomeDepot. I have a plywood template of the basic blank and get 11 decoys (22 half blanks) per sheet of foam. I cut out the blanks with a key-hole saw.

I glue two blanks together to form one that is 4" thick....I use Ultimate glue from Elmers, but 5 min epoxy or Gorilla glue works. I use a small amount of glue and let it set overnight.

next I use the hacksaw blade to cut large sections off at the tail and head

from there I start rounding out the basic shape with the surform rasp.....everyone will have their own method of working the rasp and everyone will have their own creative shape.....so you are on your own here.....just remember that there are no lines or sharp edges on a duck....everything is 'round'

after roughing out the shape, I go back and add some detail with a file and fine sand with the screen board.....since the surform and screenboard are long, they provide for easy rounding....you certainly don't want to stay on one spot....keep moving taking little bits at a time......as you get more experienced, this will come easy and take a matter of minutes to complete! Going from a laminated blank to a shapoed decoy takes me about 10 minutes.

Now we are ready to set the tail board in and the keel. The keels I use are yellow pine cut to a length of 7.5" and then mitred at 22.5*....I hollow out the keel with a drill press and then pour molten lead to weight it.....when I pour the lead I insert a 3" course drywall screw to aid in setting the keel into the blank. I slot the blank with a dremel about 1/8" and glue the keel in....I also apply three coats of spar varnish to the wood which makes a nice finished look, but more importantly seals it......the tail board is 1/4" luan which is set into a slot I cut with the hacksaw blade and that is glued...it also is spar varnished....I let the glue cure overnight

Now we can start on the burlapping! I use heavy weight landscaping burlap....it is somewhat forgiving due to the course weave....if you use fabric burlap it is alot harder to get the mastic through the fabric to adhere to the foam......I use Acylpro tile mastic...it is waterbased and is easy to clean up after ......I do the decoy in two pieces starting on the bottom where I cut a slot for the keel

after the bottom piece of burlap is on, the top goes on overlapping the bottom piece.....really work the mastic into the burlap and kinduv squeegie it with your hands....trim burlap as you go using stainless sheers (they clean up easy in warm water....same for your hands so forget the plastic gloves)

here's the decoy afer one coat of mastic......let it cure for at least 24 hours....sand and then reapply a second thin coat of mastic filling in any gaps, smoothing etc......and then sand with fine sandpaper

In the meantime, you've been carving and painting the head....I use basswood, but there are many commercial heads available. All can be painted with acrylics. Get good brushes...it'll make a difference! Some heads are plastic (Herter's for example so prep is important for good paint adhesion)...others are 2-part foam such as Toledo Decoys, MLB or EAllens....just some gesso or a good auto primer will work under the acrylics.....and here she is all painted! The body I spray with an airbrush.

Good luck if you give this a try!!!!!!! As always, I welcome questions....this is kinduv second nature to me so I may have left some gaps you will have questions on. If you have a question on something it is likely someone else does, so post up. Also, post up any suggestions or alternatives!!!

Posted by Bill(Chew) on 04-20-2017 02:40 PM:

The puppy box rail made with pvc pipe looks great but would cost a lot more than wood. I use one made of scrap 2x4s that sit on 2x4 blocks on edge. 1x4s would also work great.

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